How to get to Tétouan?

Tétouan (63 km/1 hour 20 minutes drive southeast of Tangier, which was our starting point) is located in northern Morocco.

What to do, see and visit in Tétouan?

Tétouan‚s medina, originally known as Titawin, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List in 1997.

In the Islamic period from the 8th century onwards, Tétouan was of special importance as it was located on an important road that connected Andalusia in Spain with the interior of Morocco. In addition to 2 regions, the city thus also connected 2 cultures – Spanish and Arab and 2 parts of the world – European and African.

Ensanche

The bus dropped us off in the Ensanche district (west of the medina). During the Spanish protectorate (1912-1956), the city was rebuilt by refugees who were expelled by the Spanish. This Andalusian influence was manifested in urbanism, architecture and monumental art. Even today, the School of Arts and Crafts (Dar Sanaa) and the National Institute of Fine Arts (Institute National Des Beaux Arts) operate in the city.

Archaeological Museum of Tétouan

The axis of the district is the wide Avenue Mohamed V, which connects Plaza Muley El Mehdi (Primo Rivera) and Place El Mechouar. On the street you will find hotels, shops and restaurants. If you take a short detour north from the boulevard, you will arrive at the Archaeological Museum of Tétouan (Musée Archeologique De Tétouan; 240 meters/3 minutes walk west of Place El Mechouar). Most of the exhibits come from excavations that took place in the 1930s. Here you will explore finds from the archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache. Explanations are in Arabic, French and Spanish. The ticket costs 10 mad/1 euro/person.

Royal Palace at Place El Mechouar

The dominant feature of Place El Mechouar is the royal palace in its eastern part. Although part of the square around the palace and the palace itself are closed to the public, there is still a very good view of the palace and the city offers plenty of other places where you can wander. There are 4 pillars in front of the palace. These are light columns in Art Nouveau style, which we assume were designed by Enrique Nieto, a student of Antoni Gaudí.

Opposite the palace there are 2 springs where you can get water. You can recognize the springs thanks to the numerous Moroccan flags that fly in front of them and the carved decorations around them. These represent the Hands of Fatima to ward off the evil eye.

Old Town (Medina)

You enter the old town from the square through the Bab rouah gate. Although the medina is one of the smallest in Morocco, it has been preserved in an almost unchanged form until now. Even today, the Medina is protected by 5 km long walls with 7 gates and fortified towers, the so-called borj, which arose in the 18th century. The strict layout of the medina is characterized by the main and smaller side streets. Main streets connect gates and public buildings, giving access to squares, craft and commercial districts. Smaller streets lead to passageways and semi-private residential areas.

Museum of Religious Heritage

After wandering the medina’s regular network of alleyways, we visited the Museum of Religious Heritage (Musée du patrimoine religieux; 280 meters/4 minutes walk northeast of Place El Mechouar). The four wings of the museum connect around the so-called Moroccan garden. There is a garden inside the building (atrium). In the wings around the garden, you will learn about the religious history of Morocco. In addition to Arabic and French, the explanations were also in English. After the tour, I recommend a glass of mint tea in the square in front of the museum.

Lebbadi House or Lebbadi Palace

The Lebbadi House or Lebbadi Palace (450 meters/5 minutes walk east of Place El Mechouar) was built in 1903. The palace is a typical example of Andalusian-style residential architecture with a central courtyard, columns and arches. They provide temporary accommodation in the house. Upstairs I saw probably the most carpets in one place, while downstairs they sold Moroccan handicrafts.

The owner or operator of the house did not forget to ask me for a tip in the cash register on one floor, and on the next one he asked me just to be sure if I had really contributed.

Dar El Oddi

The old family house Dar El Oddi (400 meters/5 minutes walk east of Place El Mechouar) from the 1920s, which fell into disrepair, was converted into a cultural space and inaugurated in 2018. Another house they built in the Andalusian style. You will find a tile with a different pattern on almost every square meter. After the reconstruction, they preserved the original kitchen on the ground floor. The center exhibits maps, pictures, stamps and postcards of Tétouan in the years 1525-1955. The tour allows you to go up to the roof of the house with a large terrace, from which it is just one jump to any other roof of the medina. There is a café and a souvenir shop on the ground floor. The ticket costs 25 mad/2.50 euros/person.

Bab Okla Ethnographic Museum

The Bab Okla Ethnographic Museum (Musée Ethnographique Bab Okla; 550 meters/6 minutes walk east of Place El Mechouar) gets its name from the gate through which you enter the medina from the east. Although the museum was founded in 1928, it is located in the historical fortress, which was built a century earlier (1830-1831). During the tour, you will get to know the city’s history and cultural specifics. The exposition consists of 3 parts:

1. the geography and history of Tétouan from the 15th century through the period of prosperity from the end of the 16th to the beginning of the 18th century, the decline in the 18th century to the Spanish period and the modern age in the 19th and 20th centuries,
2. urban planning of the medina and its architectural elements,
3. the arts and crafts of the medina.

Although in Dar el Oddi we were welcomed on the roof with a terrace, in the ethnographic museum entry to the roof was strictly prohibited. And it’s such a shame when from the roof you can see the Mediterranean Sea on one side and the mighty peaks of the Rif Mountains on the other. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person.

Tannery

When you hear Morocco, (almost) everyone immediately thinks of Fez and its square full of vats filled to the top with water, each a different color. Tétouan also has its own „tannery“ (450 meters/6 minutes walk north of Place El Mechouar). It is smaller, but still. Unfortunately, we did not visit the tannery, but I heard that the stench that reigns there during the processing of leather, I cannot even imagine. There is a market near the tannery where you can buy these leather products.

After visiting the city of Tétouan …

I confess that after visiting Tétouan I had to google why it is in UNESCO. No one told us this during the tour of the city and its museums. Tétouan is not an ugly city and neither is its medina. In Morocco, however, we visited the medinas, which I personally liked much more. The Andalusian style and Moroccan enclosed gardens were amazing and I would definitely visit the site again for them.

Also read these articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• Tangier – gateway to Africa
• The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache
• Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Tangier?

How to get to the city of Tangier by different means of transport – by car, train, plane or ship.

By car

Tangier is located 252 km/2 hours 46 minutes by car northeast of Rabat, the capital of Morocco. The route is charged.

By train

It is connected to Casablanca, Morocco‚s largest city, by the high-speed TGV train, which travels at a speed of up to 320 km/h. So instead of the original 4 hours and 45 minutes, the journey takes only 2 hours and 10 minutes. The journey to Rabat was shortened from the original 3 hours and 45 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes. You can buy tickets directly at railway stations in Morocco. The plan is to extend the line through Marrakesh to Agadir, 800 km southwest of Tangier. This will mean that the journey to Marrakech, which today takes more than 10 hours, will be shortened to 4 hours and 45 minutes.

By plane

I flew from Aeroport de València in Valencia, Spain to L’aéroport international de Tanger-Ibn Batouta in Tangier, Morocco. The flight lasted an average of 1 hour and 25 minutes. Due to the time difference of 1 hour, the flight actually took 25 minutes there and 2 hours and 20 minutes back. The return ticket cost 143.96 euros. The price included 1 checked bag up to 20 kg and 1 hand bag that fit under the seat in front of me. In addition, I could choose a seat on the plane both on the way there and back. I checked in online a few days before my flight.

Read in the article Morocco before the 1st visit what I experienced at Tangier airport!

By ship

The Spanish city of Tarifa (40 km northeast) is only 45 minutes away by ferry from Tangier. The route crosses country borders and the starting point (Tarifa) is in a different time zone.

What to do, see and visit in Tangier?

When visiting Tangier, don’t miss the old town (medina) with its gates, viewpoints and adjacent squares. You can also choose from museums, galleries, cultural centers or just relax on the beach.

Old Town (Medina)

We will start the tour of Tangier by entering through the gate (Bab Al Kasba) in the northwestern part of the medina. The fortress tower (Borj Al Kasba) stands on the left in front of the gate. After entering, you will find yourself at the Spanish Camp Square (La place du Tabor espagnol). The dominant feature of the square is the Borj Naam tower, which houses the exhibition dedicated to Ibn Battouta (Espace d’Exposition de la mémoire d’Ibn Battouta). He was an important traveller of the 14th century. In 29 years, he travelled to the current 44 countries from North Africa to the Far East.

Kasbah Museum or Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures (Musée de la Kasbah)

Continue west from the exhibition and you will pass the Governor’s Palace (Le palais du gouverneur) on your right. It currently provides its premises for the city’s archaeological museum and exhibition spaces for contemporary art (Musée de la Kasbah – Espace d’art contemporain). It maps the history of the city from prehistoric times to the 19th century. Explanations are only in Arabic and French. Unfortunately, the website of the National Museum Foundation is only in French. The entrance to the museum is from the Place de la Kasbah square. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person.

The gates of the Place de la Kasbah square

Three gates open onto the square. The Bab Al Bahr Sea Gate in the northern part of the square allows you to step out of the medina and enjoy the view of the new fishing port and the Strait of Gibraltar. Opposite it, in the southern part of the square, is the Bab el-Assa gate, which will take you deeper into the medina. Finally, there is the 3rd Bab Haha gate, beyond which after a few meters you will find yourself in the inconspicuous Place Amrah square, which leads to several streets of the medina. The main street still belongs to traditional craft workshops.

Mendoubia Garden and Grand Square (Grand Socco)

When you finally emerge from the narrow streets of the medina, the vast Mendoubia Garden (Le Jardin de la Mendoubia) opens up before you. The garden invites you to lie down on the grass and enjoy sweet idleness. Another gate (Bab al Fahs) separates it from Grand Socco or Place 9 Avril 1947 square.

The square got its name thanks to the speech of King Mohammed V, who arrived in Tangier on April 9, 1947. At that time, the city had international status, and the king expressed the country’s desire for unity and independence in his speech. This event affected not only the city, but the whole of Morocco. The square connects the old and new city of Tangier. The square is dominated by the historic building of the Rif cinema (Cinémathèque de Tanger – Cinéma RIF), which is still in operation. Since for me the square was the real center of the city, I chose it as a starting point for the individual attractions, businesses and institutions listed below.

Rue Siaghine

The busy shopping street Rue Siaghine, an important axis of the medina, connects the large Grand Socco square with the small Petit Socco square.

Small Square (Petit Socco)

The small square (Petit Socco; 300 m/4 minutes walk northeast of Grand Socco), located in the heart of the medina, is lined with cafes. If you’re lucky like we were, you’ll see an acrobatic family performing their latest rehearsed stunts. I recommend a glass of hot mint tea and something sweet to go with it at sunset on the roof of a 4* hotel in the eastern part of the square.

La terrasse des paresseux/Place Faro

From the square Place Faro or the terrace La terrasse des paresseux you will have an interesting view of the port of the city. You can recognize the lookout by the 4 cannons that are ready to attack the enemy coming from the sea. I read that from the viewpoint you can see as far as Gibraltar in good weather, we were not so lucky though.

What else to do, see and visit in Tangier?

In the city of Tangier, you can also visit the Tangier American Legation Museum (350 m/4 minutes on foot east of Grand Socco). Morocco was one of the first countries to recognize the United States of America a year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person for Moroccans and foreigners with permanent residence in Morocco and 50 mad/5 euros/person for foreigners without permanent residence. A guided tour costs 100 mad/10 euros. Almost the entire bay of Tangier is bordered by a wide public sandy beach with a promenade and children’s playgrounds, which is especially popular with locals. Entrance to the beach is free. All lovers of culture and art will definitely find a cultural center and several art galleries in the city.

What to do, see and visit around Tangier?

Around the city of Tangier, follow in the footsteps of Hercules in the Caves of Hercules, see the place where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea meet at Cape Spartel or „cool off“ in the Perdicaris Park.

Caves of Hercules

Hercules Caves are located 15 km/23 minutes by car southwest of Grand Socco. Legend has it that in these caves Hercules rested after completing the 10th difficult task, which was the separation of the European and African continents (known as the Pillars of Hercules). According to another legend, he separated the continents from each other only because he did not want to cross the Atlas Mountains. He then allegedly kicked the cave wall, in which you can still see a hole to this day. The shape of the hole in the wall resembles the shape of Africa. When you look from the inside, it will be obvious to you that Africa has a slightly different shape, you have to look at the opening from the sea.

There is another legend which believes a tunnel leads from the caves to Spain, which explains how the African macaques got to Gibraltar.

Useful information

Before the trip to the caves, they advised us to take some extra clothes, because it would be a little colder in the caves. No, you really don’t need to take any extra clothes in the summer months. At the end of July, I hardly noticed the difference between the temperature outside and inside. The caves are a little different from caves in Slovakia. They had placed lights under the tiled floor, which illuminated the cave effectively. Also, don’t expect any drops or karst formations.

In the cave, you can wear traditional Moroccan clothing and take a photo in it. There were several stalls with souvenirs. The whole visit reminded me of an amusement park. They call them caves because there are actually two of them. One is free to enter and the other costs 10 mad/1 euro/person. We visited the free one. For an additional fee, you can expect to see artificial statues, Greek murals and a waterfall.

Cape Spartel

Cape Spartel (14 km/23 minutes by car west of Grand Socco) is often cited as the most northwestern point of continental Africa. The symbol of the cape is the lighthouse, which is still functional today. It marks the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. The lighthouse is not accessible to the public from the inside. Since it is a nature reserve of the same name, you will see a spectacular natural theater in and out of the location. The Atlantic meets the Mediterranean here. At the point of collision, water eddies occur that drag the ships to the bottom. Apart from the lookout and the restaurant, this place doesn’t have much to offer, but you should definitely not miss it on your way to or from Hercules Caves.

Perdicaris Park

Perdicaris Park (or also Rmilat Park; 7 km/17 minutes by car west of Grand Socco) is a botanical garden where Mediterranean and Atlantic flora flourish. The park was named after Ion Perdicaris, a wealthy American of Greek origin. He had the park built for his wife, who had fallen ill with tuberculosis. They recommend visiting the park in the afternoon and early evening, when we also visited the park. Still, I’ll never forget how hot it was. The trees did not provide the much needed coolness. You can see the Atlantic from some places in the park.

Where to stay in Tangier?

We were supposed to arrive in Casablanca on Sunday, July 24, 2022 around lunchtime. From there, the organizers of the summer academy ensured a transfer to Tangier. Of course, I always have to be different and that’s why I flew straight to Tangier on Sunday morning. So I had the whole day to myself. I did not know then that it was also the last day when I had a free schedule. So by the time everyone else arrived, I had had time to settle in, wash my things and play loud music for the entire campus. One would get the feeling that I have been living in the dormitory of the institute for a few months.

The dormitory of the Higher International Institute of Tourism in Tangier

The dormitory of the Higher International Institute of Tourism in Tangier (Institut supérieur international du tourisme de Tanger in French, abbreviated ISITT; 3.8 km/47 minutes walk southeast of Grand Socco) became my 2nd home for one week. We had a choice of single or double rooms. I chose a single room, got a double room, but, luckily, without another roommate (if I don’t count the ants). The room with a sink had a view of the garden of the complex. There was a shower with a toilet on each floor. Only cold water ran in the shower on our floor, hot water was available on the floor above.

However, this shower was usually still occupied by someone. On the last day, I also managed to snatch it. But the shower pressure was so low that I regretted not taking a cold shower on my floor. The rooms did not have air conditioning. They had sliding windows. Since I also caught a fever in Morocco, I needed to sleep with the window closed for one or two nights. When I wanted to close the window on one side, it opened on the other and vice versa. There was such a hole under the door that I was in a constant draught during my entire stay. Otherwise, almost nothing bothered me there. 😛

Where to eat and where to go for coffee in Tangier?

In Tangier, we mostly ate at the institute. In addition, we tried several establishments – a modern restaurant, a traditional restaurant, fast food, several cafes and a bar. I will touch upon at least some of them.

Café Restaurant Vintage Tanger

I visited Café Restaurant Vintage Tanger (3.2 km/40 minutes walk east of Grand Socco) several times – the first day for a coffee break and dinner, and the penultimate day for tea. On the first days, I didn’t have an upset stomach yet, so I was able to enjoy a full dinner and a cake with coffee. In the restaurant, they prepare an incredibly good lava cake, which they serve with vanilla ice cream here. I ordered an espresso for dessert.

For dinner I tried the traditional Moroccan Tajine dish. These are ground beef balls in tomato sauce. I noticed that in the country they serve bread or pastry with almost every meal. Dinner was also fantastic. Well, on the penultimate day, when I prescribed a strict diet to myself, I only ordered Moroccan mint tea at Vintage, unsweetened in my case. I’m attaching a photo of how they serve it here, because I really liked it. You can pay by credit card in the restaurant.

Restaurant Bachir

Restaurant Bachir (750 m/10 minutes walk south of Grand Socco) is one of the best traditional Moroccan restaurants, recommended by locals (and travel guides). And wrong they were not . One evening we went out into town and got over the loss of dinner at the institute. As my stomach problems were at their peak at the time, I opted for the Vegetable Tajine with a whole teapot of mint tea. Vegetables were complemented by potatoes.

I regret that I could not appreciate the taste of the food. Abroad, they use spices completely differently than in Slovakia. Another thing I noticed in Morocco was that food and hot drinks are always brought to your table so hot that they are still bubbling in the plate and in the glass. I paid about 40 mad/4 euros for the bill. I paid in cash, so I can’t tell you for sure if the restaurant accepts credit cards.

Prestige Garden

After arriving in Morocco, we had breakfast at the Prestige Garden cafe (3 km/40 minutes walk southeast of Grand Socco). I ordered a traditional breakfast which included: wholemeal bread, baghrir (a pancake made from semolina or flour, if you bake it properly it is leaky), rghayef (traditional flat bread), harcha (semolina bread), butter, honey, jam and a molten cheese. Of course, there was mint tea, coffee and orange juice. I would easily get used to this kind of breakfast.

Canteen of the institute

The organizer provided food for us in the form of full board. Breakfast was mostly similar to what I mentioned in the paragraph above. We always had a choice of water, juice and hot drinks, which included sweetened or unsweetened Moroccan tea and coffee to drink. Breakfast was followed by lectures, which were separated by a small coffee break. During it, we refreshed ourselves with hot drinks and sweet pastries or cakes. Two-course lunches consisted of a cold starter, usually a salad, and a main course. Also, 2-course dinners included soup and a main course.

I do not remember all the dishes that we had the opportunity to taste, but among them were, for example Groat soup with milk, Beef sausages with tomato sauce, baked potatoes and Moroccan-style rice (with cinnamon and sugar). I tasted some fantastic food on the last day. It was a puff pastry pie filled with minced meat and pistachios. It’s just a shame that Moroccans are such lovers of sweet food that they also poured honey and sprinkled sugar on this salty cake.

In conclusion…

I spent a pleasant week in Tangier, not only in terms of accommodation and food, but also getting to know the attractions of the city and its surroundings.

Read more articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache
• Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue
• Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

Please keep in mind that some of the information may be subject to change.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Tangier – gateway to Africa je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Alba Iulia?

Alba Iulia is located in the Alba county, a historical region of Transylvania in central Romania, 355 km / 4.5 hours northwest of Bucharest.

By car

The city of Alba Iulia is crossed by 3 national roads DN1, DN14B and DN74, while part of DN1 is part of the E81 European road.

• DN1 leads through Bucureşti – Ploiești – Brașov – Făgăraș – Sibiu – Alba Iulia – Turda – Cluj-Napoca – Oradea – Borș to Hungary. In the city, it identifies with the E81 European road, which connects Transcarpathian Ukraine with the Romanian Black Sea coast (Mukachevo – Halmeu – Satu Mare – Cluj-Napoca – Turda – Sibiu – Piteşti – Bucureşti – Constanţa),
• DN14B leads from Alba Iulia via Blaj to Copșa Mică,
• DN74 leads from Brad via Abrud – Zlatna to Alba Iulia.

By bus

There are 5 bus stations or stops around the fortress:

• Autogara Autotrans STP Alba – 260 m / 3 minutes walk north of the train station and 2 km / 22 minutes walk south of the fortress,
• Autogara Livio Dario SRL – 170 m / 2 minutes walk north of the train station and 2 km / 25 minutes walk southeast of the fortress (at Autogara Autotrans STP Alba),
• Benzinaria Petrom – Gara – 230 m / 3 minutes walk west of the train station and 1.7 km / 21 minutes walk south of the fortress,
• Statie Intersectie Magazin Spar – 1.5 km / 20 minutes walk northwest of the fortress and 3 km / 40 minutes walk northwest of the railway station,
• Statie Intersectia Autogarii – 2 km / 22 minutes walk northeast of the fortress and 2.5 km / 30 minutes walk north of the railway station.

The bus journey from Râmnicu Vâlcea (174 km) took 3 hours and 49 minutes and the ticket cost 39 lei / 8.06 eur / person. You can buy a ticket for this long-distance bus directly at the bus station and just show it to the driver when entering the bus.

By train

The railway station (Gara Alba Iulia) is located 1.8 km / 22 minutes walk south of the fortress. From the station we traveled back to Slovakia. Before the trip, we bought train seats. Behind the window was a nice English-speaking cashier. We did not get to Poprad (of course) directly from Alba Iulia. Fortunately, it was necessary to change train only 3 times – in Vințu de Jos, Budapest, Hungary and finally in Košice, Slovakia.

The journey took (incredible) 15 hours and 46 minutes. A return ticket from Poprad to Alba Iulia cost 73.50 eur / person. The ticket was valid for 1 month. Price did not include seats. To Vințu de Jos we took a regional train. A seat from Vințu de Jos to Budapest cost 3 eur / person. From Budapest to Košice a seat also cost 3 eur / person. A seat from Košice to Poprad cost 1 eur / person.

Before the trip, stock up on food very well. The station in Vințu de Jos was a bit strange. There was an overpass, which was not used at all. The waiting room was heated, but if you only have a hole instead of a window, it is probably not very effective. And you won’t find a vending machine for drinks or food at the whole station.

Where to get information in Alba Iulia?

The National Center for Tourism Information and Promotion (Centrul Național de Informare și Promovare Turistică; 500 m / 6 minutes walk west of the fortress center) is literally hiding among the western bastions. We managed to visit the center in 5 minutes 12 (in fact it was 4.55 p.m.). The employee of the center was already about to lock up when we „robbed“ her and asked for promotional materials about the city at the last minute. She „put“ maps and brochures in our hands and respectfully sent us away.

What to do, see and visit in Alba Iulia?

Alba Iulia has been the capital since ancient times. At that time, however, it was called Apulum and was the most important center of the Roman province of Dacia. The first fortress was a Roman military camp. In the years 1542-1690 it was the capital of Transylvania. The citadel of Alba Iulia is the largest fortress in Romania. Although the medieval fortress (2nd in a row) was built in the 13th century (on the foundations of a Roman military camp), its current appearance is slightly younger and dates back to the 18th century.

This, 3rd fortress, the Citadel of Alba Carolina (Cetatea Alba Carolina; in German Karlsburg, named after Emperor Charles VI, who initiated its construction), was built for more than 20 years (1715-1738). The fortress was designed by Italian architect Giovanni Morando Visconti using the Vauban military architectural system. Albu Iulia has been considered the symbolic capital of Romania for more than a century. Admission to the fortress is free.

The 1st, 2nd, 3rd gate of the fortress of Alba Iulia and the Obelisk of Horea, Cloșca and Crișan

You can enter the citadel through three entrances – from the east, from the west and north and through 7 gates. On the east and west sides of the fortress there are, on each three gates, on the north side one gate.

The 1st fortress gate (Poarta I-a a Cetății) at the eastern entrance has the form of a triumphal arch and is decorated with rich sculptural decoration inspired by Greek mythology. From the gate, a 130 m long paved sloping road leads to the 2nd fortress gate (Poarta a II-a a Cetății), which was partially destroyed in 1937 due to the construction of the obelisk and later rebuilt.

From the 2nd gate you can see the 3rd fortress gate (Poarta a III-a a Cetății), I dare say the most beautiful. It has the shape of a double triumphal arch. It is dominated by the equestrian statue of the Habsburg Emperor Charles VI. In the area between the gates, the 22.5 m high stone obelisk (Obeliscul lui Horea, Cloșca şi Crișan) will certainly not escape your view. The obelisk was erected on 14 October 1937 (on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the peasant uprising) to commemorate the three martyrs (Horea, Cloșca and Crișan), leaders of the peasant uprising, which took place in the years 1784-1785. At night, all sights are impressively lit.

History

The reason for the uprising was the poor level of feudal servitude in Transylvania. Orthodox Romanians were also not politically equal to Catholics, represented mainly by the Saxon, Hungarian and Székelys nobility. Leaders Horea and Cloșca were tortured by breaking in the wheel. Crișan hung himself in his cell to avoid torture. It is assumed that Horea’s death cell was in the 3rd gate under the statue of the king. The uprising ended with the servitude abolition in Transylvania in 1785.

Bronze model of the medieval citadel and the Michael the Brave church

From the obelisk to 3rd gate you walk around a bronze model of medieval citadel marked with attractiveness. Looking south you can see the wooden Michael the Brave church (Biserica Mihai Viteazul), built in 1988 in the „Maramureș“ style. The church stands on the site of the former metropolitan cathedral, which was built here by Michael the Brave in 1597 and which was destroyed by the Habsburgs in 1714.

Via Principalis and the path of the Three Fortresses

When you pass the 3rd gate, you get on the so-called The Via Principalis, which led through the entire Roman military camp from north to south. On your left hand you will see The path of the three fortresses (Traseul Celor Trei Fortificații), which is open to visitors during the summer tourist season. Three fortresses because the first fortress was a Roman military camp, the second a medieval fortress and the third the Citadel of Alba Carolina from the 18th century. Every fortress they built here included the previous one.

Principia Museum

In the center of the citadel is the Fortress Square (Piața Cetății). In the northern part of the square is the University December 1, 1918 (Universitatea 1 Decembrie 1918) and the Principia Museum (Muzeul Principia). Archaeologists have found the most important part of the Roman military camp in these places – the seat of the 13th Legion of Gemina, the only legion that remained in the province of Dacia during the entire period of Roman rule. In the museum you can admire, among other things, the old walls and the ingenious in situ heating system.

The Union Hall

The western side of the square is bordered by one of the most important buildings not only of the city, but of the whole Romania – The Union Hall (Sala Unirii). It was in this hall on December 1, 1918 that the representatives of Transylvania and Romania signed the Treaty of Unification. Why did they meet in this room? The answer is simple. Because it was the largest room in the whole city, which could accommodate up to 1,228 Romanian delegates. Admission to The Union Hall is free. You will receive a zero ticket at the entrance.

The equestrian statue of Michael the Brave

South of the hall is the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave (Statuia Ecvestră a lui Mihai Viteazul), a Wallachian prince who united Wallachia with Transylvania and Moldova in the 16th century. Alba Iulia is one of the few places that Michael the Brave personally visited. It happened on November 1, 1599 and he stayed in the city for 10 months. However, after his execution in 1601, this union disintegrated. The statue was ceremoniously unveiled on November 28, 1968, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of unification.

The Custozza and Lossenau Monuments

In the middle of the square, two monuments rise in height – Custozza and Lossenau. The Custozza Monument (Monumentul Custozza), in the shape of an obelisk, was erected in 1906 to commemorate the soldiers and officers of the 50th Infantry Regiment who fought alongside the Habsburg army against the Italians at the Battle of Custozza in 1866.

The Lossenau Monument (Monumentul Lossenau) was erected in memory of Austrian Colonel Ludwig Losy von Losenau, the leader of the Habsburg troops, who fell in the battle of Simeria in 1849 during the revolution in Transylvania. The neo-Gothic monument was built in the 1950s. Although there is no one in the square, it is „enlivened“ by statues of figures typical of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.

National Museum of Unification

To the west of The Union Hall stands the National Museum of Unification (Muzeul Național al Unirii). The museum is comparable to other county museums in Romania. On three floors, it offers a walk through history from prehistory to the 19th century, which covers an entire floor of the museum. The tour ends with an exhibition of sculptures in the lapidary. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

St. Michael’s Cathedral and the Coronation Cathedral

If we continue further west, we will suddenly find ourselves in the shadow of two monumental churches. To the left is the St. Michael’s Cathedral and on the right the Coronation Cathedral.

Roman Catholic St. Michael Cathedral (Catedrala Romano-Catolică Sfântul Mihail) was built in the 13th century. It thus became the oldest cathedral in Transylvania. The cathedral is a kind of royal tomb. John Hunyadi (Iancu de Hunedoara), the Duke of Transylvania and the Governor of Hungary, Isabela Jagiellon, Queen of Hungary and finally her son John II Sigismund Zápolya, the first prince of Transylvania, all found eternal rest in it.

Coronation Cathedral, Unification Cathedral or also the Orthodox Church of St. Michael (Catedrala Încoronării) was founded only in the first quarter of the 20th century in the years 1921-1922. The first religious building to be built in Transylvania after the great unification. For Romanians, it is a real monument of national unity. Coronation because on October 15, 1922, they crowned King Ferdinand I and Queen Mary. Opposite the main entrance to the cathedral rises a 52 m high bell tower.

The 4th, 5th and 6th gate of the fortress of Alba Iulia

The 4th fortress gate (Poarta a IV-a a Cetății) is located on the west side of the citadel and is decorated with several Baroque sculptural elements. We also know it as the „New Gate“ or „Bishop’s Gate“. It is the only ornate gate on the west side of the citadel. The 5th fortress gate (Poarta a V-a a Cetății) has a simple architecture without decorative elements and the shape of an arched corridor. Gates were once connected by a drawbridge over the moat. The 6th fortress gate (Poarta a VI-a a Cetății) freely connects to the 5th gate. It is a simple gate with two massive pillars, on which are placed two stone cannonballs at the moment of firing.

Museikon

Museikon (240 m / 3 minutes walk northwest of Fortress square) focuses mainly on sacred art. It contains a valuable collection of Transylvanian icons, historical prints and other religious objects. It is exhibiting medical items in the basement, as the building housed the first military hospital in Romania in the 18th century.

The 7th fortress gate

The last, northern, 7th fortress gate (Poarta a VII-a a Cetății) was discovered by chance during reconstruction works. It is believed that it did not serve its purpose and was bricked up before the completion of the fortress. Again, it has the simple form of an arched corridor without statues.

Where to stay in Alba Iulia?

Villa Matia Resort is located (850 m / 10 minutes walk east of the fortress; 1.2 km / 16 minutes walk north of the railway station and bus station Autogara Autotrans STP Alba) directly at the eastern side of the fortress. The property does not have a 24-hour reception. There was a telephone number on the front door that we called, and a very nice English-speaking receptionist arrived in about half an hour.

The lady accommodated us in a double room overlooking the road in front of the facility with a private bathroom with shower. But if we had a room on the opposite side of the facility, we would have a direct view of the fortress. Very nice, elegantly furnished and spacious room, which consisted of an entrance hall, the room itself and a private bathroom. There was an electric kettle in the room. It is not necessary to reserve a space in the free private car park, which is available on site. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the property.

For one double room for 2 people for one night we paid 124 lei / 25.63 eur. The price included a room and 5% value added tax. The price did not include breakfast (5 eur / person / night), which is served only during the summer season. We paid at the property with a credit card in local currency.

Villa Matia Resort is the 2nd best accommodation during our last visit to Romania and one of the best in all of Transylvania.

Where to eat in Alba Iulia?

The food in Alba Iulia was great.

Hotel Vila Preciosa

Hotel Vila Preciosa (1 km / 11 minutes walk east of the fortress) is a modern hotel in the wider city center. The hotel has a clean and elegant restaurant where we stopped for lunch. I tasted Caramelized chicken breasts with cherry sauce and curry rice. After the main course, we ordered the Papanași dessert, which they prepare here a little differently than in other parts of the country. It looked more like Slovak potato gnocchi with breadcrumbs than fried doughnuts with jam. Still, dessert was excellent. We were served by a very nice, English-speaking waitress. We paid 117 lei / 24.18 eur for lunch for 2 people. One of the best restaurants during our last visit to Romania.

PUB 13 – Restaurantul Cetății

The medieval restaurant PUB 13 – Restaurantul Cetății (550 m / 6 minutes walk east of the fortress center) is located directly in the citadel wall. The medieval atmosphere is enhanced by stone vaults, massive wooden furniture, weapons, flags and coats of arms on the walls. English speaking staff. I tasted chicken breasts with onions and mamaliga, which are served on a hot decorated earthenware dish. The food was really great. We paid 150.50 lei / 31.11 eur for dinner for 2 people.

I finally managed to visit the city of Alba Iulia after a few years. I have corrected old rests from the past and I have no choice but to recommend a visit. The attractive and interesting city abounds in a rich offer of cultural monuments, accommodates you in a cozy hotel and satiates with selected dishes in attractive restaurants. In addition, the bonus is nice people who welcomes every visitor.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid as of 15 April 2020 (EUR 1 = 4.8378 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Alba Iulia – Romanian freedom flower je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

In Romania, it is probably also allowed to park on the sidewalks (similar to Slovakia). However, here in Slovakia we should park the car so that there is a distance of 1.5 m, respectively 2 people will walk side by side on the sidewalk. This is probably not the case in Romania, because everyone parks there as they come. And since you are in a big city where there are a lot of people who have a lot of cars and space is scarce, you can park wherever you can.

How to get to Craiova?

Craiova is located in Dolj County, in western Wallachia, in Oltenia, in southwestern Romania, 233 km / 3 hours and 3 minutes by car west of Bucharest.

By car

Craiova has very good transport accessibility. A Class european roads (E70, E79), B Class european road (E574) and several national roads (DN55, DN6B and DN65C) pass through the city:

• A Class european roads:
  • E70 – leads from Georgia to Spain. In Romania, it passes through Bucharest – Craiova – Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Timișoara – Cenad. In the city, it identifies with the national road DN6.
  • E79 – leads from Hungary to Greece. In Romania, it passes through Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. It passes through the city as a national road DN56.
• B Class european road:
  • E574 – which starts in Bacău, passes through Brașov, Pitești and ends in Craiova. In the city it is the national road DN65.
• National roads:
  • DN55 – Craiova – Bechet.
  • DN6B – Craiova – Melinești – Hurezani.
  • DN65C – Craiova – Bălcești – Horezu.

By bus

If you are traveling to the city by bus, you can get off at one of the following stops:

• Autogara Craiova Nord (Pelendava SA) – 2.5 km / 30 minutes walk northeast of the center (at the train station)
• Autogara A. C. O. T. P. Dolj (Bacriz) – 2.5 km / 35 minutes walk northeast of the center (near the train station)
• Metro – 7 km / 14 minutes by car east of the center (at the airport)

By train

The railway station (Gara Craiova) is 2.3 km / 31 minutes walk northeast of the center. The journey from Drobeta-Turnu Severin took 2 hours 9 minutes and the ticket cost 34.70 lei / 7.18 eur / person.

By plane

Craiova International Airport (Aeroportul Internațional Craiova) is located 7 km / 11 minutes by car east of the center. From the airport, you can currently (April 2020) fly to 11 destinations in 8 countries in Europe and the Middle East.

What to do, see and visit in Craiova?

There are three museums in the city, each exhibiting different collections, an art museum and several historic buildings that currently serve as offices or a university.

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Istorie și Arheologie; 500 m / 6 minutes walk west of the center) exhibits, as the name suggests, historical, archaeological and numismatic collections from prehistory to the present. The museum is a kind of small maze, but don’t worry. Although you see the exhibition yourself, you will always have a museum lecturer on your heels, who is ready to answer any questions, will guide you, turns on and turns off the lights. Interestingly conceived exhibition. The ticket price also included a short-term exhibition dedicated to socialist toys. Set aside about 1.5-2 hours for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Științele Naturii; 180 m / 2 minutes walk west of the center) hides in its premises paleontological, mineralogical, botanical, malacological (mollusc science), entomological (insect science), ichthyological (fish science), herpetological (reptile and amphibian science), ornithological (bird science) and teriological (mammal science) collections. On the second floor there is a planetarium and an exhibition dedicated to space and the solar system. We went through the exhibition ourselves. Set aside about one hour for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography (Casa Băniei – Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Etnografie; 550 m / 6 minutes walk southwest of the center) is located in the so-called Băniei House a few meters south of the historical museum. The house is the oldest secular building in the city. It was established at the end of the 15th century. In the museum we can find handicrafts and objects of folk art made of clay, wood, metal and other materials. The basement is occupied by an exhibition focused on the production of bread. Upstairs, the museum exhibits rugs, woven products and religious objects, including icons. The museum was again a maze in which we were guided by a lecturer. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Museum of Art

In Craiova you can also visit the Art Museum Craiova (Muzeul de Artă din Craiova; 260 m / 3 minutes walk north of the center; 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person), which exhibits, among other things, six works by Constantine Brâncuși, about who I have already wrote in the article Târgu Jiu – the city jungle of Oltenia. By the way, Constantine studied at a local art school.

Significant buildings and sculptures of Craiova

There are several squares in the city center and its wider surroundings. In the article, I focused on Michael the Brave’s Square (Piața Mihai Viteazul), from which I also calculated distances.

The eastern side of the square is bordered by the building of Dolj County Prefecture (Instituția Prefectului Județului Dolj), which is a symbol of the city of Craiova.

Right on the square is the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave (Statuia lui Mihai Viteazul). Michael the Brave (1558-1601) was the first Romanian prince who united three principalities – Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldova into one unit. He is a national hero for Romanians. He won 4th place in the 100 greatest Romanians TV show.

Just a few meters west from statue of Michael the Brave is a statue of another Romanian prince named Barbu Dimitrie Ştirbei. Barbu was a prince twice, first in the years 1848-1853 and later in the years 1854-1856.

In the western part of the square there is Romanian Opera House (Opera Română Craiova). In front of it is a roundabout, in the middle of which is a third statue, a statue of Charles I (Statuia lui Carol I). Charles I was King of Romania from 1866-1914. He won a silver medal in the TV show of 100 greatest Romanians.

On the way from the center to the station you will walk around the university (Universitatea din Craiova; 500 m / 6 minutes walk east of the center) from the end of the 19th century, which originally served as a courthouse.

Where to stay in Craiova?

In the city we stayed in a cozy Romanian Pensiunea Luisa guest house (1 km / 13 minutes walk southeast of the center and 2.6 km / 35 minutes walk southwest of the train and bus station), located on the outskirts of the center.

The receptionist spoke only Romanian, but she was very willing to explain everything to us. She accommodated us in a double Business Room with a small window overlooking the wall of the opposite building with a private bathroom with shower. As I looked for the plug, I noticed a clump of dust under the bed. Therefore, I preferred not to look at the mattress. A buffet breakfast is served in the restaurant, which is adjacent to the guest house and is interconnected. Free (but very weak) Wi-Fi internet connection was in the whole object. It is not necessary to book a free private parking space, which is available on site.

I’m sorry I didn’t take a photo of stairs and the corridor at the guest house. If you’ve ever read Dracula by Bram Stoker, this is exactly how I imagined the hotel in Bistrița, where Jonathan Harker stayed on his way to Dracula’s castle.

For one double room for two people for one night we paid 120 lei / 24.82 eur. The price included room, 5% value added tax, 1% city tax and breakfast. In the guest house we paid by credit card in local currency.

Where to eat in Craiova?

We ate in the city in two Italian restaurants – Restaurant Il Forno and Pizzeria Trevi, and between museum tours we had a coffee break in a patisserie. A visit of the confectionery was nothing special and therefore I will not write about it.

Restaurant Il Forno

Restaurant Il Forno (750 m / 10 minutes walk east of the center) is a pleasant looking modern restaurant in the city center. I tasted Chicken rolls with spinach and feta cheese and roasted potatoes (chicken breast, spinach, feta cheese, cream, garlic, pepper), which were delicious. English speaking staff. After lunch, I recommend you a delicious Italian espresso. We paid 86 lei / 17.79 eur for lunch for 2 people.

Pizzeria Trevi

Pizzeria Trevi (1 km / 13 minutes walk east of the center) is a truly Italian restaurant. A cozy restaurant that uses every square meter of its area. There were tables with checkered tablecloths, serving tables, Italian-speaking staff and, of course, an Italian menu. I tasted Partenopea pasta. It is a pasta with onion-based tomato sauce with tuna and olives. The taste is enhanced by capers and the portion is covered with grated Parmesan cheese. The pasta was very tasty and rich. We paid 100 lei / 20.69 eur for dinner for 2 people.

After visiting the city of Craiova, I am probably most sorry that we did not have time to visit the Art museum. I would also like to walk through the large park, which is situated south of the center. Instead, the cold February weather „drove us“ to heated museums and restaurants.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid on 1 April 2020 (1 eur = 4.8340 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Craiova – the capital of Oltenia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

In Drobeta we were supposed to have the warmest weather from our entire holiday. There should have been an incredible 15! degrees. Actually, there were those 15 degrees, but there was such an incredible wind blowing in the city that we didn’t enjoy the „warm“ weather so much.

How to get to Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

Drobeta-Turnu Severin is located in western Wallachia, Oltenia region, in southwestern Romania, administratively in Mehedinți County.

By car

Severin lies at the crossroads of national roads DN6 and DN67. The national road DN6, which is also part of the European road E70, leads on the route Bucharest – Craiova – Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Timișoara. The DN67 national road leads from Drobeta-Turnu Severin via Târgu Jiu to Râmnicu Vâlcea.

By bus

If you travel to Drobeta by bus, you can get off at the bus station, or one of the following stops:

• Main bus station (Autogara Transport Public Urban Drobeta SA) – 2 km / 23 minutes walk east of the city center and 3 km / 38 minutes walk northeast of the railway station.
• Agentia ,,Drobeta,,Dr. Tr. Sev. – at the main bus station,
• Parcare Interex – at the main bus station,
• Generala nr. 2 (also known as B-dul Tudor Vladimirescu) – 2 km / 25 minutes walk west of the bus station and 280 m / 4 minutes walk north of the Water Tower, ie closest to the center.

The bus journey from Târgu Jiu took 2 hours 15 minutes and the ticket cost 24 lei / 4.96 eur / person.

By train

The railway station (Gara Drobeta-Turnu Severin) is located 1.2 km / 15 minutes walk southwest of the city center.

Where to get information in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

The Tourist Information Center is just a few steps walk north of the medieval fortress of Severin.

What to do, see and visit in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

Severin‚s primary offer is somewhat richer, perhaps more attractive than in other cities in western Wallachia. In the city you will find the Iron Gates Region Museum, the Medieval Fortress of Severin and the Water Tower.

Iron Gates Region Museum

Iron Gates Region Museum (Muzeul Regiunii Porților de Fier) exhibits its collections in several buildings – the Multifunctional Pavilion, the Archaeological Park and the Turbine Museum in Gura Văii.

Multifunctional pavilion

The Multifunctional Pavilion (Pavilionul Multifuncțional – Muzeul Regiunii Porților De Fier; 1.3 km / 16 minutes walk east of the center) is the main building of the museum. A book guide attracted us to the aquarium with fish from the Danube in addition to historical, archaeological or ethnographic collections. In the end, we didn’t see any of it. The museum is currently closed due to reconstruction and offers only 4 short-term exhibitions:

• traditional housing in the Mehedinți region – a selection from ethnographic collections
• paintings „Dumitru Ghiață“ – a selection of 46 paintings from the collections of the Museum of Art,
• Roman cuisine – a selection of historical and archaeological collections,
• stuffed birds – a selection of natural science collections.

Admission is 4 lei / 0.83 eur / person.

Archaeological park

The Archaeological Park (Parcul Arheologic – Muzeul Regiunii Porților De Fier) is located directly at the Multifunctional Pavilion. The remains of a Roman camp, Trajan’s Bridge, a Roman amphitheater, a Roman bath and a medieval church were found in the park.

The fortress was the first Roman camp in the territory of Dacia and served to defend the Trajan’s Bridge. Apollodorus of Damascus had built a bridge over the Danube on the orders of Emperor Trajan as early as 102-105 AD. It was the largest bridge in antiquity, connecting two Roman provinces – Dacia (north of the Danube) and Moesia (south of the Danube). Two basic foothills have been preserved from the bridge, one on the Romanian side and one on the Serbian side.

The rest of the Trajan’s bridge is forever buried at the bottom of the Danube, which rose in these places by 8-10 m after the construction of a hydroelectric power plant. The bridge is even depicted on Trajan’s Column in Rome. The amphitheater was used to train Roman legionaries. After training, they could recover in a nearby spa. You walk through the park yourself. There are information boards in Romanian and English throughout the complex. Admission is 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person.

Gallery:

Turbine Museum in Gura Văii

The Turbine Museum in Gura Văii (Muzeul Turbinelor de la Gura Văii; 12 km / 14 minutes by car northwest of the city center) is located in the Iron Gates hydroelectric power plant in the village of Gura Văii, managed by Drobeta. In addition to the permanent historical and archaeological exposition, it also offers visitors temporary exhibitions from ethnographic, natural history collections and a turbine hall. Thanks to the absent bus from Târgu Jiu and reviews on the Internet, we finally missed the tour of the museum and preferred the attractions in the city. Admission is 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person.

Sailing in these places on the Danube was still dangerous. The river wound through the gorge between the rocks and, in addition, swirls formed in it. In the second half of the 20th century, Romania agreed with Yugoslavia (now Serbia) to build a hydroelectric power plant. It was established in the years 1960-1972 and is the largest dam power plant on the Danube and one of the largest in Europe. Its construction caused the river level to rise by 33 m, flooding 10 places on the Romanian and 7 places on the Serbian coast, including the historic part of Orșova and the Turkish island of Ada Kaleh.

The medieval fortress of Severin

The medieval fortress of Severin (Cetatea Medievală a Severinului; 650 m / 8 minutes walk south of the center) is probably the first stone fortress in Romania. The fortress was built by the king Ladislaus I of Hungary at the end of the 11th century for defense in case of attacks by Kumani and Pechenegs. It later protected from the Turkish invasion. After conquering the fortress, the Turks ordered its demolition. At present, you can walk along its walls for free.

Water Tower

The Water Tower (Castelul de Apă; 350 m / 5 minutes walk north of the center) was built in 1910. Its main function was to supply the city of Severin with water. It was inaugurated four years later and served its mission until 1980. During World War I served as an observatory for German soldiers. The tower is 27 m high.

From the tower there is a view of the regular network of city streets, the Danube and the opposite Serbia. There is a different short-term exhibition on each floor of the tower. On the top floor it was an exhibition of historical photographs of old Drobeta, on other floors an exhibition dedicated to the Serbian town of Negotin and works of art school students. On the ground floor there is a souvenir shop and was an exhibition of photographs of regional churches and monasteries. Admission is 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person.

Where to stay in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

Mon Cheri guest house is located 900 m / 11 minutes walk northwest of the city center; 1.3 km / 17 minutes walk north of the train station and 2.2 km / 30 minutes walk west of the bus station.

We stayed in a double room with a balcony and a view of the main road with a private bathroom with shower. The room was furnished with older furniture, but I guess I slept here on the best mattress in the whole of Oltenia. The room smelled a bit, but we have become accustomed in Romania. Good English-speaking receptionist, but only Romanian-speaking waitress. Breakfast is also served at the guest house. It is not included in the price of accommodation. The waitress, who was probably also a cook, prepared a tasty omelette for us.

For one double room for 1 night for 2 people we paid 130 lei / 26.88 eur. The price includes room, 5% value added tax, 1% city tax. You can pay at the guest house by card. The price does not include breakfast. For breakfast for 2 people we paid 29 ron / 6 eur. It is not necessary to book a space in the free public car park, which is available on site. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the guest house.

Where to eat in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

We tried 2 restaurants and one café in the city.

Restaurant & Lounge 16,50

Restaurant & Lounge 16.50 (400 m / 5 minutes walk west of the center) is a luxurious-looking restaurant almost in the city center. We were probably the first guests to come to dinner that day. In some rooms it was not even lit. It was in one, but waiters were sitting and smoking there (again the cigarette smoke). The smoke was smelled a bit in the room where we were eating. We didn’t let ourselves be discouraged, even though I thought we’d get up and go somewhere else. In the end, it was the restaurant where we ate the best. Again, only Romanian-speaking staff. I tasted the specialty of the house, Chicken wok (chicken breast, pepper, eggplant, pumpkin, garlic, sweet chili sauce, basmati rice).

We also tasted dessert. We were very pleased to see the traditional Romanian dessert Papanași (something like Slovak doughnuts) in the menu, which is usually served here with sweet cream and blueberries. After dinner we went for a walk along the Danube embankment. Unfortunately, the waterfront is not arranged in the same way as in other cities in Romania. But the city and its sights are illuminated nicely at night. We paid 150 lei / 31.02 eur for dinner for 2 people.

Rustic Restaurant

The restaurant where we wanted to eat lunch the next day was closed. We therefore went to the nearest restaurant (Rustic; 260 m / 3 minutes walk southwest of the center) in the area. Based on personal experience, I can evaluate that the restaurant is true to its name. After entering, I felt like I had moved back in time a few decades. Large unwashed windows (those windows were probably washed, only the glass could be so old that it was not really visible through it), everywhere full of large green dusty plants, long wooden tables, quasi-wooden roofs with folk motifs above the tables, older, only Romanian speaking lady waitress and lunch price for 2 people lower than for two coffees elsewhere in the city.

We tasted the daily menu: vegetable soup and broth (it was the same vegetable soup, they just put sliced chicken in it). The main course was a slice of pork and a slice of chicken. The oil on which the meat was prepared, I guess, remembered the socialist era. We could choose potatoes in any way as a side dish. I’m glad waitress picked fries for us. Of course, dessert can’t be missed after the main course. This was followed by popular pancakes. I probably wouldn’t go back to the restaurant for the food, but for the experience, or perhaps even better the feeling. We paid 40 lei / 8.27 eur for lunch for 2 people.

Ada Kaleh Café

The Turkish Ada Kaleh café is located right in the city center. We ordered an original Turkish coffee (not poured, but prepared in cezve and sand!) with baklava. I was a little sorry that if it weren’t for the unique environment, I would get the feeling that I was just in any other café in Romania. We paid 42 lei / 8.69 eur for a bill for 2 people.

I can’t say that Drobeta-Turnu Severin did not meet my expectations. It is possible I probably just idealized the city just before I arrived. I am convinced that during the summer, when it is nice, the city has a completely different atmosphere. I don’t want to exaggerate, maybe seaside, but there are definitely terraces everywhere and full of people and warm and fragrant. But I’m idealizing it again.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid as of March 24, 2020 (1 eur = 4.8357 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Drobeta-Turnu Severin on the Danube bank and just a jump to Serbia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Hunedoara?

Hunedoara hides in southwestern Transylvania in western Romania.

By car

National road 68B connects Hunedoara with the largest town of Hunedoara County – Deva, which is 15 km / 15 minutes by car north.

By bus

The bus station (Autogara Interservice SRL) is located 2 km / 24 minutes walk north of the castle. Buses run from Deva to Hunedoara approximately every 20 minutes. The bus ride takes about 40 minutes. A travel ticket costs 9-9.50 lei / 1.87-1.97 eur / person.

By train

Hunedoara was once connected to Simeria by railway line 207, which is not currently in operation. If the line is renewed, the train station is right next to the bus station.

What to do, see and visit in Hunedoara?

I guess all visitors who come to Hunedoara are heading to Corvinus Castle. In addition to the castle, the city has 4 smaller museums, a historical park and a ZOO.

Corvinus castle

Corvinus Castle (Castelul Corvinilor, Castelul Huniazilor) is an important Gothic-Renaissance fortress in Romania. It is one of the largest castles in Europe. The castle is one of the most important examples of secular and military architecture in Transylvania. It dominates the List of 7 Wonders of Romania, the TOP 10 castles in Europe and is visited annually by more than 300,000 visitors.

The first stone fortress is supposed to date back to the 14th century, but some historians date it to the first half of the 15th century. In 1440, the castle underwent a major reconstruction, led by its owner John Hunyadi. We assume that this stage of castle construction ends before 1446, when Hunyadi became the governor of Hungary. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Hunedoara was the main center of iron mining and processing in Transylvania. The swords and spears produced here during this period were known throughout Europe.

Who was John Hunyadi?

John Hunyadi (Romanian Iancu de Hunedoara, Hungarian János Hunyadi; 1387-1456) was a Transylvanian nobleman, duke and legendary Turkic slayer. In Slovakia, he fought against John Jiskra of Brandýs. For his wife Elizabeth Szilágyi, he had a house built in Baia Mare in the Maramureș region in northern Romania, which bears his name. John Hunyadi spent most of his life on the battlefield in the battles against the Turks – in 1444 near Varna, in 1448 the second battle on the Kosovo field, which he lost and finally the siege of Belgrade in 1456. Although Hunyadi won, a plague epidemic broke out in the military camp, which on August 11, 1456 he finally succumbed to. He was buried in the Catholic Cathedral of St. Michael in Alba Iulia.

The next, third stage of the castle construction, which is expected to have ended around the year 1480, is already associated with his son Matthias Corvinus.

John Hunyadi has a raven in his coat of arms, which symbolizes wisdom and longevity. The raven comes from the Latin corvus, the Romanian is called corb. Although we call his son Matthias Corvinus, he himself was never called that.

Who was Matthias Corvinus?

Matthias Corvinus (Romanian Matei Corvin, in Hungarian Mátyás Hunyadi, 1443-1490) was the second-born son of John Hunyadi. He was born in the current „capital“ of Transylvania – Cluj-Napoca. You can still see his birthplace there today. In the years 1458-1490 he was the king of Hungary. We know him in Slovakia thanks to the Academia Istropolitana (the oldest university in Slovakia territory), which he founded in 1465, and the promotion of the ideas of humanism and the Renaissance in the Kingdom of Hungary. We can thank his wife, Queen Beatrix of Aragon of Naples, for this. He died at the age of 47 two days after suffering a stroke. He was upset when the servants brought him unwashed figs.

The fourth, late Renaissance reconstruction of the castle took place in the 17th century, when the castle was inhabited by Gabriel Bethlen, who was Prince of Transylvania (1580-1629). We know him from our history as the leader of the uprising during the 30-year war. But he was not the only one. A few years later, another leader of the anti-Habsburg peasant uprising, Emeric Thököly (1657-1705), lived in the castle. Emeric was born in Kežmarok, Slovakia, where he is also buried. Since the 18th century, the castle has been the property of the state, first Austria, later Austria-Hungary and finally Romania.

On April 13, 1854, a fire caused by lightning destroyed all wooden parts of the castle. Already in the 19th century, the first restoration work began on the castle, which can be described as the 5th construction stage. Work continued in the early and second half of the 20th century. In 1974, the Hunedoara Museum was founded. In addition to this function, the castle also serves as a film backdrop. It even served as a model for the Museum and Library of Hungarian Agriculture in Budapest.

Castle tour

Corvinus Castle is entered by a long narrow bridge on high stone pillars. Immediately after entering, there is an exhibition of torture instruments in the rooms on the left and right. The largest rooms of the castle include a knight’s and banquet hall. They are dominated by octagonal columns with Gothic vaults decorated with marble.

At Corvinus castle you will find a few rooms furnished with period furniture. There is an extensive lapidary in the basement of the castle. A significant element of the castle is the tower „Nje boisia“ („Do not be afraid“) in the western part. It got its name thanks to Serbian mercenaries who were in the castle garrison. It is connected to the castle by a gallery, which is 33 m long.

The legend of the castle well

In 1442, John Hunyadi defeated the Turks on the Ialomița River and captured them at his castle. He had been wondering how they could possibly help him before he would sold them into slavery. He promised that if they dug a well in the castle, he would release them. Three Turkish prisoners kept digging for 15 years and 28 days before water first appeared in the well.

Meanwhile, in 1456, however, John Hunyadi died, so the release of the prisoners remained with his wife, the noble Elizabeth Szilágyi. She feared the revenge of the Turks after their release and therefore sentenced them to death. The last wish of the Turkish prisoners was to place an inscription with their names (Ali, Mehmed and Ibrahim). Names written in lower case in a certain order are said to be text from the Koran, which means:

„You have a well, but you have no soul.“

However, the actual inscription is:

„The one who wrote this inscription is Hassan, who lives as a slave in the rocks in the fortress near the church.“

The inscription is at a height of about 2.50 m on the outer wall of the chapel near the well.

Set aside 1-2 hours for a tour of the castle. The tour is unmanned, so you can roam the castle freely. Admission to the castle is 31 lei / 6.43 eur / person.

Museums, park and garden

In Hunedoara you can visit 4 other museums, a historical park and a zoo.

The Museum of Archeology, History and Ethnography of Hunedoara (Muzeul de Arheologie Istorie Eti Etnografie Hunedoara) is a permanent exhibition focusing on the history of the town from prehistory to the Middle Ages. The „Guild’s House“ Museum (Muzeul Casa Breslelor) contains various objects on the ground floor dedicated to 4 guilds – weavers, tanners, shoemakers and furriers. It exhibits numismatic collections upstairs. Admission is 9 lei / 1.87 eur / person.

Torture Exhibition (Expoziție Inedita Ev Mediu Tortura și Execuție), as the name suggests, focuses on medieval torture and torture instruments. All three museums are located in the outer (hussar) courtyard of the castle. Exposition „The steps of Romania through socialism and democracy (Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism Demi Democrație) is located 2.5 km / 30 min. walk east of the castle. Based on the photographs I found, this is an exhibition of objects from the period of socialism in Romanian territory.

Hunedava (1 km / 10 min. walk west of the castle) is a kind of park of living history, which will transport you to antiquity and the Middle Ages and through the Dacians, Romans or Turks will bring you closer to life in this area. The ZOO Hunedoara (Grădina Zoologică Hunedoara) is located 3.5 km / 10 min. by car east of the castle.

Where to stay and eat in Hunedoara?

We went to Hunedoara for a 1-day trip from Deva. You will find recommended accommodation and catering facilities in the article Deva full of stories.

It is true that the inside of Corvinus Castle may not be as impressive as the outside, but I am very happy that I finally visited it. A tour of the castle is definitely an unforgettable experience that I will remember forever.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid on 12 March 2020 (EUR 1 = LEI 4.8213).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Hunedoara – a town with a raven sign je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Deva?

Deva is located on the main road and railway from Hungary to Romania, so you can easily get here from the capital of our southern neighbor (Budapest) without a single transfer.

By car

Deva is crossed by the European roads E68, E79 and E673. The E68 starts in the Hungarian town of Szeged and continues through the border crossing Nădlac – Arad – Deva – Sibiu – Făgăraş to Braşov. The European route E79 leads from north to south from Hungary via Romania, Bulgaria to Greece. In Romanian territory, it passes through the cities of Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. The European road E673 from Lugoj ends in the city.

By bus

If you are traveling to or from the city by bus, you can come to one of the following bus stops:

• Autogara BV Dasler SRL – main bus station next to the train station,
• Parcare McDonald’s – north of the bus station,
• Benzinaria PETROM (langa McDonald’s) – north of the “ McDonald’s“.

Do not worry about anything, the station and both stops are next to each other. Regional and some long-distance buses leave from the southern part of the station, and public transport and some long-distance buses start in the northern part. Some regional buses also stop at public transport stops.

By train

All international trains from Budapest stop in Deva. The railway runs in Romania through the cities of Arad – Deva – Sibiu – Făgăraş – Braşov. Gara Deva (the railway station) is located 700 m / 9 minutes walk east of the city center. The journey from Budapest takes 7 hours 51 minutes. A return ticket from Poprad to Alba Iulia cost 147 eur for 2 people. The seat cost 3 eur / person (2020).

The train literally flies over Hungary, in Romania it „drags“ a bit then. Prepare for checks on both sides of the border. You will stay on the Hungarian side for 40 minutes, on the Romanian side for about 25 minutes. During this time, they manage to replace the locomotives and take about half of the train on their way from Hungary. I was surprised that there is no restaurant car on the train and the offer of refreshments from the trolley is not available. Therefore, get enough food before the trip.

Where to get information in Deva?

The Tourist Information Center (Centrul Național de Informare și Promovare Turistică) is located at the lower station of the funicular to the fortress (Telecabină Cetatea Devei; 850 m / 10 minutes walk north of the city center).

What to do, see and visit in Deva?

Deva does not have an overflowing tourism primary offer. Nevertheless, it offers a few attractions that make it worth staying in the city longer.

Deva fortress

The stone fortress in Deva (Cetatea Devei), which sits on a hill high above the city, is unmissable from every side from which you come to the city. It dates back to 1269. In 1784 it served as a refuge during the peasant uprising.

Hungarian legend says that the builder of the Deva fortress had his wife walled up in one of the walls of the fortress. He wanted to ensure that Satan never destroyed the fortress. The death of his wife was probably in vain. The fortress was conquered by Hungarian rebels after a 4-week siege in 1849 by the explosion of gunpowder warehouses. The tooth of time has been biting into her ever since. Projects for the gradual restoration of the fortress emerged only in this century.

You can go to the fortress on foot or by cable car (20 lei / 4.16 eur / person). Two walking routes – 30- and 40-minute start north of the manor house. Both routes are worthwhile. While the shorter one winds around the hill from the west side, the longer one from the east side. The lower station of the funicular is located at the eastern foot of the hill. You can enter the fortress at any time of the day or night. Admission is free.

In the Deva fortress there are information boards (also in English) and vending machines in case you get hungry or thirsty. From the fortress you will have a view of the surrounding hills, valleys and the city itself, which lies below the hill. In the past, the so-called the „Salt road“ that connected Rome with Transylvania, passed through the city.

Museum of Dacian and Roman Civilization

Museum of Dacian and Roman Civilization (Muzeul Civilizației Dacice și Romane) is housed in the Renaissance manor house of Magna Curia, which dates from 1621. On the ground floor you can get acquainted with natural history collections, on the first floor with historical and archaeological ones. Permanent exhibitions are complemented by temporary exhibitions. We saw exhibitions dedicated to contemporary photography, wooden sculptures, treasure from the museum’s collections, or the 750th anniversary of the fortress. The ticket costs 20 lei / 4.16 eur / person.

I was surprised by the exhibition of dresses of Maria Szechy (1610-1678), who was the granddaughter of the infamous „bloody“ Countess Elisabeth Bathory. However, we know her from legends as „Venus of Muráň“. Maria was born and raised in Muráň, Slovakia, but at the age of 17 she married Stephen Bethlen and moved to the manor house in Deva, Transylvania. According to other sources, she allegedly fled to Deva from her second husband, Stephen Kun. After the death of her first husband, she married twice more.

For the first time to the already mentioned Stephen Kun, with whom she divorced. It should be noted that then it was not as common as it is today. The last time she married Ferenc Wesselényi, the Fülek castle captain, later the Hungarian palatine (the second highest position after the monarch). He married Maria only four months after the death of his wife Zsófia Bosnyák, whom we know from Strečno Castle in Slovakia.

Statue of Decebalus

The equestrian statue of King Decebalus of Dacia (Statuia lui Decebal; 500 m / 5 minutes walk south of the center) is located in front of the Drăgan Muntean Cultural Center. Decebalus ruled in the years 87-106 AD. His name means „as strong as ten men“. He fought against the Roman army several times. Last in 106 AD, when he was defeated by the legions of Emperor Traian. Decebalus would rather commit suicide (allegedly pierced his throat) than fall into captivity.

Statue of the Roman emperor Traian

The statue of the Roman Emperor Traian (Statuia lui Traian) is located in the city center in the pedestrian zone behind the huge inscription „I love Deva“. The decisive battle between Traian and Decebalus is also depicted on Traian’s Column in Rome.

Where to stay in Deva?

Rooms Cristian is located (1.8 km / 23 minutes walk south of the center) in a residential area in the southern part of the city. There is a bus stop near the hotel, with public and regional buses.

We were accommodated in a spacious twin room „Deluxe“ with a private bathroom with shower and a view of the street in front of the hotel. At check-in, the receptionist was a little confused, but tried to solve everything to our satisfaction. She made sure I had her phone number so I could contact her with any questions. Rooms Cristian was another of the accommodation facilities in which smoking is probably allowed inside as well, because in our room it was quite felt perceived. The shower flowed a bit.

We found out after its first use, when the bathroom was slightly flooded. The bathroom window was facing the opposite apartment buildings, so you won’t enjoy much privacy there. They prepared breakfast only for us, so we ate both days the same, but it doesn’t matter. They prepared a rich breakfast, which gave us enough strength to explore the city and the region. The receptionist spoke German, the waitress spoke English. Free private parking is available on site. Reservation is needed. Free Wi-Fi internet access is available throughout the hotel.

For one twin room for 2 people for 2 nights we paid 200 lei / 41.57 eur. The price includes room, value added tax, city tax and breakfast. You can only pay in cash in the local currency.

Where to eat and go for coffee in Deva?

During two days we tried 3 restaurants and one café in the city.

BöRD13

The Swedish-sounding BöRD13 (700 m / 9 minutes walk south of the center) is a pleasant modern restaurant on the floor of an older building. The restaurant offers fantastic views of Deva city center with the statue of Decebalus in the foreground and the Deva fortress in the background. Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, there was no free table by the window and the staff seated us at a larger table by the bar. Only one English-speaking waiter was found among the attending staff though. I didn’t want to experiment very much, so I chose a classic and ordered lasagna, which was very tasty. We paid 95 lei / 19.75 eur for dinner for 2 people.

Grizzly Restaurant

Grizzly Restaurant (only 140 m / 2 minutes walk west of the train station) was our first stop after arriving to Romania. Nice, clean, minimalist restaurant with English speaking staff. I tasted fried chicken breast with basil, green sauce and rosemary potatoes. Dinner was simply delicious. After dinner, we enjoyed a local brandy, which did not taste us so much. We paid 110 lei / 22.86 eur for dinner for 2 people.

Restaurant Capriccio Deva

The Italian Restaurant Capriccio Deva is located right in the city center in the pedestrian area. You just enter one of the gates and the restaurant is hidden in the garden of the house. After a tour of the castle, museum and fortress, we got a taste for something big and rich. Naturally, we got a pizza that was mediocre. The waiter forgot about us with the order of the drink, which he later admitted. But he hadn’t had the time to serve us anyway. A little surprising when I think that it is his job, but probably common. We paid 90 lei / 18.71 eur for lunch for 2 people.

The Refresh

The stylish The Refresh Café is located in the city center, right in the pedestrian zone. I really like the fact they did care about the details in the café. On Sunday morning, it filled with many young guests. There was almost nowhere to sit. The café seems to have captured its target audience accurately. I tasted cappuccino and brioche. The coffee was great, so was the cake. If I had lived in Deva, this would have been a coffee shop where I would probably spend my entire salary. We paid 24 lei / 4.99 eur for a bill for 2 people.

I think that two days will be enough for a city tour. The old town retains the atmosphere of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. It is already surrounded on all sides by socialist apartment buildings, but do not be discouraged. The gastronomic scene of the city is excellent. I recommend visiting.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid on 5 March 2020 (EUR 1 = 4.8110 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Deva full of stories je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Târgu Jiu?

Târgu Jiu is located in western Wallachia, the Oltenia region, in southwestern Romania.

By car

The city is crossed by 2 national roads (DN) – DN66, which is part of the European road E79 and DN67. The European road E79 starts in Hungary and ends in Greece. In Romania it passes through the cities of Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. National road DN67 runs on the route Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Târgu Jiu – Râmnicu Valcea.

By bus

The bus station (Autogara Expres Transport SA) is located 300 m / 3 minutes walk south of the railway station and 1.5 km / 20 minutes walk southeast of the city center. Traveling by bus from Deva took 3 hours and 13 minutes. The ticket cost 37 RON / 7.64 EUR / person.

By train

You will find the train station (Gara Târgu Jiu) 300 m / 3 minutes walk north of the bus station and 1.2 km / 15 minutes walk southeast of the city center.

Where to get information in Târgu Jiu?

The Tourist Information Center (Info Târgu Jiu; 150 m / 2 minutes walk west of the city center) is located next to the Gorj County Council (Consiliul Județean Gorj) in a side street.

What to do, see and visit in Târgu Jiu?

Târgu Jiu is known for its sculptural ensemble by Constantin Brâncuși. In addition, there are the County Museum and Art Gallery, as in other cities not only in Romania, too.

Sculptural Ensemble of Constantin Brâncuși at Târgu Jiu

Sculptural Ensemble of Constantin Brâncuși at Târgu Jiu (Ansamblul sculptural Constantin Brâncuși de la Târgu-Jiu) or the Monumental Ensemble “The Path of Heroes” from Târgu Jiu is a homage to Romanian World War I soldiers who fell on the Jiu river bank in 1916. Their author, Constantin Brâncuși, created 4 statues – Endless Column, Gate of Kisses, Alley of Chairs, and Table of Silence, which are arranged on a nearly 1.5 km long west-east axis. By the way, the ensemble is inscribed on the Tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage.

Who was Constantin Brâncuși?

Constantin Brâncuși (1876-1957) was a Romanian sculptor of abstract expressionism, painter and photographer. He is one of the greatest sculptors of the 20th century. In his works he combined Romanian folk art and Parisian avant-garde. He worked in the workshop of the prominent French sculptor Auguste Rodin. In the period of socialist realism, his works were signed as a decadent bourgeoisie and threatened with extinction. Only a few decades later the author was understood. His works can be found in art museums in Bucharest, New York or Philadelphia. He was buried at the Montparnasse Cemetery in Paris. The name Constantin Brâncuși bear several streets across Romania and Moldova. The sculptor and his works appeared on postage stamps, banknotes and commemorative coins.

Table of Silence

You would have been able to see from the Table of Silence to the Endless Column if the Church of St. Peter and Paul had it not been for in the way. All the works were unveiled on October 27, 1938. They are the only works of the author that you can admire in situ. The artist was originally supposed to create 12 sculptures, but before his death, he completed only four.

The Endless Column

The Endless Column (Coloana Infinitului) has a height of 29.35 m, consisting of 16 (respectively 15 and one half module at the bottom and one half module at the top) of the overlapping octahedra modules. The Endless Column represents an endless sacrifice of Romanian soldiers. The statue is a stylization of burial columns (according to another version of wooden columns of peasant verandas), typical for southern Romania.

I read somewhere that if you stand close to the column and turn your head upwards, it will really appear endless. So I wanted to try it. (Un)luckily, Brâncuși‚s works are a national heritage for the Romanians and are guarded by police 24 hours a day.

The Gate of Kisses

The Gate of Kisses (Poarta sărutului) is a triumphal arch, located at the beginning of the city park. The gate has a special meaning for Romanians. It is an entry into life, but also an exit from it. It is therefore a transition to another life. The two halves of the circle on each side of the columns are a kiss symbol.

The Alley of chairs

The Alley of chairs (Aleea scaunelor) consists of 30 stone chairs arranged in triples and 2 stone benches on both sides of the pavement. The sculpture connects the Table of Silence with the Gate of Kisses.

The Table of Silence

At the opposite end of the city park as the Gate of Kisses stands The Table of Silence (Masa tăcerii). It represents the moment before the battle which the attendees will participate in. Time is a circular arrangement of 12 hourglass chairs.

Another interpretation says that the Table of Silence is a symbol of the Last Supper. The twelve chairs are for the 12 apostles and the table itself represents Jesus Christ.

Gorj County Museum Alexander Ștefulescu

Gorj County Museum Alexander Ștefulescu (Muzeul Județean Gorj „Alexandru Ștefulescu“) saves several collections and makes it available to visitors in several museums and memorial houses across the county. It exhibits historical and archaeological collections at the Museum of History and Archaeology Alexander Ștefulescu (Muzeul de istorie și arheologie Alexandru Ștefulescu). The art collections can be found in the Art Gallery (Muzeul de Artă), which focuses on the fine art of Romanian artists from the 17th century to the present. Meet Brâncuși’s personality here with a few pictures of his life.

Where to stay in Târgu Jiu?

Of all accommodation facilities in Oltenia we were accommodated in, I rate the Palace Hotel (or also SC Lexi Star SRL Hotel; 700 m / 9 minutes walk west of the bus and railway station and 1.2 km / 16 minutes walk south of the city center) as the best. English speaking receptionist. Spacious, elegantly furnished double room with city view with private bathroom with shower. For breakfast, they will prepare eggs in any way and you can also choose from the buffet.

In the city they used to being cozy at warm. They heated our room as if it was freezing outside. We managed to lower the heating a little, but not shut it down completely. With 2 hours later the room was still so warm that there was nothing left to do but to sleep in the middle of February with the window open. You don’t have to worry, we certainly didn’t freeze. For a moment I felt like it was summer outside.

Free private parking is possible on site. Reservation is needed. Wi-Fi is available in all areas and is free of charge. For one double room for 1 night for 2 people we paid 140 RON / 28,90 EUR. The price includes room, value added tax, city tax and breakfast for 2 persons. You can only pay cash in local currency at the hotel.

Where to eat in Târgu Jiu?

We ate in the city in two traditional Romanian restaurants – Pensiunea Antique and Madam.

Pensiunea Antique

Pensiunea Antique, a traditional Romanian restaurant, is located in the city center opposite the Gate of Kisses. We arrived at the restaurant at lunchtime when they were serving the daily menu. The menu consisted of soup, main course, salad, dessert and drink. We had 2 meals to choose from.

The staff did not speak English, so we had to translate the food names quickly through google to have at least an idea of what we were ordering. But the waiter arrived fast enough, so we didn’t manage to translate everything. Finally, we chose both options, with the fact that we will be surprised. I am fascinated by the fact that even if the staff does not speak English or understands just a little bit you if you are trying to speak Romanian, „Țuică“ (traditional Romanian plum distillate, usually 40-55%) is understood by everyone. 🙂

We tasted Broth with meatballs (liver dumplings?) and Tripe soup. Menu number 1 was Roast pork chop with green pepper sauce and mashed potatoes with the cabbage salad. They served Tiramisu for dessert. Menu number 2 was Grilled chicken with rice and vegetables. In addition, mixed vegetable salad and they served Pancakes with homemade jam for dessert.

You can choose a drink of your choice – mineral water or draft beer to the daily menu. After lunch I ordered coffee, but since the waiter didn’t understand us very much, he brought us two coffees. For the lunch we paid 87 RON / 17,96 EUR. Well, let me tell you, we were literally „sated„. All calories we burned while walking through the city.

Madam

For dinner I chose Madam restaurant, which is also in the city center. Very nicely furnished and modern restaurant with English speaking service. The space is divided by large wine racks, on the walls are photographs with works by Brâncuși. I tasted Baked trout with salt milk rice. For the dinner for 2 people we paid 97,50 RON / 20,13 EUR.

Although we didn’t spend a lot of time in the city, I really liked it here. I dare say that city is such a hidden jewel of the Oltenia region. If I had to choose even one city in western Wallachia to visit again, it would definitely be Târgu Jiu.

The prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia on 19 March 2020 (1 EUR = 4.8445 RON).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Târgu Jiu – city jungle of Oltenia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.