A bit of the history of the Lixus archaeological site

In the Phoenicians times, Lixus is considered one of the largest cities in the western Mediterranean and the oldest city in Morocco. Archaeologists have found objects in the site that were imported from all over the Mediterranean. In the 6th century BC the city was attacked by the Carthaginians and remained in it until the establishment of the Roman Empire in 40 AD. Gold, ivory and slaves were traded in the city. On the other hand, salt, wine, olives, fish sauce and wild animals were exported from Lixus to amphitheatres throughout the Roman Empire. During this period, several private and public buildings were built in the city.

During the times of the Roman Empire, the city experienced its greatest prosperity. Thermal baths, temples, basilica, amphitheater and fortifications were added. After the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century AD the so-called the dark age, from which we have not preserved many finds. We know that the industrial district functioned until the beginning of the 5th century and that a community of Christians lived in the city before the arrival of the Muslims. Muslims occupied the city until the 14th century. An Islamic villa with an atrium, a mosque, waste pits and ceramics have been preserved from this period.

Did you know that …

…according to ancient Greek fables and myths, Heracles‚ last task was to bring 3 golden apples that guaranteed eternal life from the garden of the Hesperides? The apples were guarded by the nymphs Hesperides, daughters of the Titan Atlas. Giant Atlas had to carry the entire firmament on his shoulders forever as a punishment for rebelling against the gods. The garden was allegedly located in the city of Lixus. And the golden apples could be Moroccan tangerines.

Tour of the Lixus archaeological site

We started the tour at the Lixus Museum (Museo di Lixus). In several rooms, you will get to know the development of the site and the most important finds.

Industrial district

Then the guide took us to the industrial district. I’m not talking about any factories, but artisan workshops. They specialized in the processing of fish meat and the production of fish sauces (garum – fish sauce made from fermented fish). The neighborhood is located near the river and is believed to have been the city’s river port. The district consists of 10 workshops and 150 fish maceration tanks. Workshops were said to be among the largest of their kind in the entire Mediterranean and operated for almost half a millennium.

As you walk around the tanks, be careful not to accidentally fall into one of them and end up in fish sauce. The surroundings are not secured in any way.

Amphitheater

From the industrial district, we continued further up the hill until the amphitheater and public baths began to appear in front of us. In the amphitheater, fights between gladiators and wild animals took place. The public baths, like other discovered Roman baths, consist of an antechamber, cold and warm rooms and pools. The bath was decorated with marble and wall paintings. Only a few meters above the amphitheater stand the last remains of the basilica.

Residential district

Inhabitants of the city of Lixus lived at the very top of the hill. The residential district consisted mainly of spacious and richly decorated Roman houses with colonnaded courtyards. The houses were inhabited by the owners of meat workshops and farms around the city. Houses were characterized by geometric and figural mosaics, wall paintings and private baths. The mosaics discovered here are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum in Tétouan.

We didn’t see much of the residential area. Grass and small bushes were really everywhere. In some places they even grew out of the walls.

Palace complex

As you approach the palace complex from the residential area, you will still see the last wall that protects it today. The complex consisted of a palace with annexes, a temple, thermal baths with an ancient wrestling arena, an Islamic villa, a mosque, drinking water storage tanks, the remains of an aqueduct, pre-Roman houses and a necropolis. The remains of palace buildings represent all the periods that the site has gone through. From the Phoenicians to the 14th century, when the inhabitants left the site to move to the new town of Larache.

From the entire location, you will have its surroundings in the palm of your hand. You’ll see the Loukkos River winding its way through the landscape before emptying into the Atlantic on the horizon. You will not miss the sea salt tanks and the seaside town of Larache.

Useful information

Explanations are only in Arabic and French. We English speaking visitors were given a paper from which we learned more about the history and the site. The site’s official website is also only in French. The ticket costs 60 mad/6 euros/person.

What to do, see and visit in Larache?

Despite the fact that Larache is only 7 km/12 minutes by car west from the archaeological site of Lixus, we did not visit the city. Maybe we didn’t have to sit at the hotel for two hours after lunch. It doesn’t matter. I hope I will have the opportunity to visit this city again.

What we know about the city is that it was occupied by the Spanish in the 17th century and its inhabitants built ships for corsairs. In 1911, Larache became the main port of the Spanish protectorate.

Place de la Liberation

The center of the city is the Place de la Libération square. It is lined with cafes where locals spend a long time sipping mint tea.

Old Town (Medina)

Similar to other cities in Morocco, the old city in the form of a medina has been preserved in Larache. It is entered through the Bab Al Khemis gate. The narrow streets converge on the Zoco de la Alcaiceria square, which functions as a market. To the north of the medina is the ruined Saadian fortress, and to the south is a viewpoint.

Terrasse Corniche

700 m/8 minutes walk from the Place de la Libération is the view of the Terrasse Corniche. The viewpoint offers a view of the old town of Larache, the mouth of the Loukkos river and the Atlantic.

Ras R’mel Beach (Plage Ras R’mel)

You won’t find many places with gradual access to the sea directly in the city. However, nearby (11 km/17 minutes by car north of Place de la Libération, just 1.5 km as the crow flies) you will find Ras R’mel beach. A boat runs across the mouth of the Loukkos River to take you from one bank to the other. The trip should cost around 10 mad/1 euro/person.

In the city, you can still see a fortress from the 17th century, which is closed to the public, a gallery in the medina, a music conservatory, which you can only see from the outside, and the grave of the French writer Jean Genet.

In conclusion …

The ravages of time have already taken their toll on the archaeological site of Lixus. I confess that I have already visited more attractive archaeological sites than Lixus. In them, they clearly defined where visitors can move and where their entry is already prohibited. As visitors, we got everywhere in Lixus. I didn’t have such a strong need to climb all the stones and take pictures on all the walls, which are slowly (some maybe quickly due to the actions of others), but definitely falling apart.

Several speakers spoke about sustainability during the academy. I apologize in advance, I don’t want to offend anyone, but if the tours of the archaeological site of Lixus continue as they are and no protective measures are taken, the site, which has survived for thousands of years, will surely disappear sooner or later.

Also read these articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• Tangier – gateway to Africa
• Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue
• Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Tangier?

How to get to the city of Tangier by different means of transport – by car, train, plane or ship.

By car

Tangier is located 252 km/2 hours 46 minutes by car northeast of Rabat, the capital of Morocco. The route is charged.

By train

It is connected to Casablanca, Morocco‚s largest city, by the high-speed TGV train, which travels at a speed of up to 320 km/h. So instead of the original 4 hours and 45 minutes, the journey takes only 2 hours and 10 minutes. The journey to Rabat was shortened from the original 3 hours and 45 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes. You can buy tickets directly at railway stations in Morocco. The plan is to extend the line through Marrakesh to Agadir, 800 km southwest of Tangier. This will mean that the journey to Marrakech, which today takes more than 10 hours, will be shortened to 4 hours and 45 minutes.

By plane

I flew from Aeroport de València in Valencia, Spain to L’aéroport international de Tanger-Ibn Batouta in Tangier, Morocco. The flight lasted an average of 1 hour and 25 minutes. Due to the time difference of 1 hour, the flight actually took 25 minutes there and 2 hours and 20 minutes back. The return ticket cost 143.96 euros. The price included 1 checked bag up to 20 kg and 1 hand bag that fit under the seat in front of me. In addition, I could choose a seat on the plane both on the way there and back. I checked in online a few days before my flight.

Read in the article Morocco before the 1st visit what I experienced at Tangier airport!

By ship

The Spanish city of Tarifa (40 km northeast) is only 45 minutes away by ferry from Tangier. The route crosses country borders and the starting point (Tarifa) is in a different time zone.

What to do, see and visit in Tangier?

When visiting Tangier, don’t miss the old town (medina) with its gates, viewpoints and adjacent squares. You can also choose from museums, galleries, cultural centers or just relax on the beach.

Old Town (Medina)

We will start the tour of Tangier by entering through the gate (Bab Al Kasba) in the northwestern part of the medina. The fortress tower (Borj Al Kasba) stands on the left in front of the gate. After entering, you will find yourself at the Spanish Camp Square (La place du Tabor espagnol). The dominant feature of the square is the Borj Naam tower, which houses the exhibition dedicated to Ibn Battouta (Espace d’Exposition de la mémoire d’Ibn Battouta). He was an important traveller of the 14th century. In 29 years, he travelled to the current 44 countries from North Africa to the Far East.

Kasbah Museum or Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures (Musée de la Kasbah)

Continue west from the exhibition and you will pass the Governor’s Palace (Le palais du gouverneur) on your right. It currently provides its premises for the city’s archaeological museum and exhibition spaces for contemporary art (Musée de la Kasbah – Espace d’art contemporain). It maps the history of the city from prehistoric times to the 19th century. Explanations are only in Arabic and French. Unfortunately, the website of the National Museum Foundation is only in French. The entrance to the museum is from the Place de la Kasbah square. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person.

The gates of the Place de la Kasbah square

Three gates open onto the square. The Bab Al Bahr Sea Gate in the northern part of the square allows you to step out of the medina and enjoy the view of the new fishing port and the Strait of Gibraltar. Opposite it, in the southern part of the square, is the Bab el-Assa gate, which will take you deeper into the medina. Finally, there is the 3rd Bab Haha gate, beyond which after a few meters you will find yourself in the inconspicuous Place Amrah square, which leads to several streets of the medina. The main street still belongs to traditional craft workshops.

Mendoubia Garden and Grand Square (Grand Socco)

When you finally emerge from the narrow streets of the medina, the vast Mendoubia Garden (Le Jardin de la Mendoubia) opens up before you. The garden invites you to lie down on the grass and enjoy sweet idleness. Another gate (Bab al Fahs) separates it from Grand Socco or Place 9 Avril 1947 square.

The square got its name thanks to the speech of King Mohammed V, who arrived in Tangier on April 9, 1947. At that time, the city had international status, and the king expressed the country’s desire for unity and independence in his speech. This event affected not only the city, but the whole of Morocco. The square connects the old and new city of Tangier. The square is dominated by the historic building of the Rif cinema (Cinémathèque de Tanger – Cinéma RIF), which is still in operation. Since for me the square was the real center of the city, I chose it as a starting point for the individual attractions, businesses and institutions listed below.

Rue Siaghine

The busy shopping street Rue Siaghine, an important axis of the medina, connects the large Grand Socco square with the small Petit Socco square.

Small Square (Petit Socco)

The small square (Petit Socco; 300 m/4 minutes walk northeast of Grand Socco), located in the heart of the medina, is lined with cafes. If you’re lucky like we were, you’ll see an acrobatic family performing their latest rehearsed stunts. I recommend a glass of hot mint tea and something sweet to go with it at sunset on the roof of a 4* hotel in the eastern part of the square.

La terrasse des paresseux/Place Faro

From the square Place Faro or the terrace La terrasse des paresseux you will have an interesting view of the port of the city. You can recognize the lookout by the 4 cannons that are ready to attack the enemy coming from the sea. I read that from the viewpoint you can see as far as Gibraltar in good weather, we were not so lucky though.

What else to do, see and visit in Tangier?

In the city of Tangier, you can also visit the Tangier American Legation Museum (350 m/4 minutes on foot east of Grand Socco). Morocco was one of the first countries to recognize the United States of America a year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person for Moroccans and foreigners with permanent residence in Morocco and 50 mad/5 euros/person for foreigners without permanent residence. A guided tour costs 100 mad/10 euros. Almost the entire bay of Tangier is bordered by a wide public sandy beach with a promenade and children’s playgrounds, which is especially popular with locals. Entrance to the beach is free. All lovers of culture and art will definitely find a cultural center and several art galleries in the city.

What to do, see and visit around Tangier?

Around the city of Tangier, follow in the footsteps of Hercules in the Caves of Hercules, see the place where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea meet at Cape Spartel or „cool off“ in the Perdicaris Park.

Caves of Hercules

Hercules Caves are located 15 km/23 minutes by car southwest of Grand Socco. Legend has it that in these caves Hercules rested after completing the 10th difficult task, which was the separation of the European and African continents (known as the Pillars of Hercules). According to another legend, he separated the continents from each other only because he did not want to cross the Atlas Mountains. He then allegedly kicked the cave wall, in which you can still see a hole to this day. The shape of the hole in the wall resembles the shape of Africa. When you look from the inside, it will be obvious to you that Africa has a slightly different shape, you have to look at the opening from the sea.

There is another legend which believes a tunnel leads from the caves to Spain, which explains how the African macaques got to Gibraltar.

Useful information

Before the trip to the caves, they advised us to take some extra clothes, because it would be a little colder in the caves. No, you really don’t need to take any extra clothes in the summer months. At the end of July, I hardly noticed the difference between the temperature outside and inside. The caves are a little different from caves in Slovakia. They had placed lights under the tiled floor, which illuminated the cave effectively. Also, don’t expect any drops or karst formations.

In the cave, you can wear traditional Moroccan clothing and take a photo in it. There were several stalls with souvenirs. The whole visit reminded me of an amusement park. They call them caves because there are actually two of them. One is free to enter and the other costs 10 mad/1 euro/person. We visited the free one. For an additional fee, you can expect to see artificial statues, Greek murals and a waterfall.

Cape Spartel

Cape Spartel (14 km/23 minutes by car west of Grand Socco) is often cited as the most northwestern point of continental Africa. The symbol of the cape is the lighthouse, which is still functional today. It marks the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. The lighthouse is not accessible to the public from the inside. Since it is a nature reserve of the same name, you will see a spectacular natural theater in and out of the location. The Atlantic meets the Mediterranean here. At the point of collision, water eddies occur that drag the ships to the bottom. Apart from the lookout and the restaurant, this place doesn’t have much to offer, but you should definitely not miss it on your way to or from Hercules Caves.

Perdicaris Park

Perdicaris Park (or also Rmilat Park; 7 km/17 minutes by car west of Grand Socco) is a botanical garden where Mediterranean and Atlantic flora flourish. The park was named after Ion Perdicaris, a wealthy American of Greek origin. He had the park built for his wife, who had fallen ill with tuberculosis. They recommend visiting the park in the afternoon and early evening, when we also visited the park. Still, I’ll never forget how hot it was. The trees did not provide the much needed coolness. You can see the Atlantic from some places in the park.

Where to stay in Tangier?

We were supposed to arrive in Casablanca on Sunday, July 24, 2022 around lunchtime. From there, the organizers of the summer academy ensured a transfer to Tangier. Of course, I always have to be different and that’s why I flew straight to Tangier on Sunday morning. So I had the whole day to myself. I did not know then that it was also the last day when I had a free schedule. So by the time everyone else arrived, I had had time to settle in, wash my things and play loud music for the entire campus. One would get the feeling that I have been living in the dormitory of the institute for a few months.

The dormitory of the Higher International Institute of Tourism in Tangier

The dormitory of the Higher International Institute of Tourism in Tangier (Institut supérieur international du tourisme de Tanger in French, abbreviated ISITT; 3.8 km/47 minutes walk southeast of Grand Socco) became my 2nd home for one week. We had a choice of single or double rooms. I chose a single room, got a double room, but, luckily, without another roommate (if I don’t count the ants). The room with a sink had a view of the garden of the complex. There was a shower with a toilet on each floor. Only cold water ran in the shower on our floor, hot water was available on the floor above.

However, this shower was usually still occupied by someone. On the last day, I also managed to snatch it. But the shower pressure was so low that I regretted not taking a cold shower on my floor. The rooms did not have air conditioning. They had sliding windows. Since I also caught a fever in Morocco, I needed to sleep with the window closed for one or two nights. When I wanted to close the window on one side, it opened on the other and vice versa. There was such a hole under the door that I was in a constant draught during my entire stay. Otherwise, almost nothing bothered me there. 😛

Where to eat and where to go for coffee in Tangier?

In Tangier, we mostly ate at the institute. In addition, we tried several establishments – a modern restaurant, a traditional restaurant, fast food, several cafes and a bar. I will touch upon at least some of them.

Café Restaurant Vintage Tanger

I visited Café Restaurant Vintage Tanger (3.2 km/40 minutes walk east of Grand Socco) several times – the first day for a coffee break and dinner, and the penultimate day for tea. On the first days, I didn’t have an upset stomach yet, so I was able to enjoy a full dinner and a cake with coffee. In the restaurant, they prepare an incredibly good lava cake, which they serve with vanilla ice cream here. I ordered an espresso for dessert.

For dinner I tried the traditional Moroccan Tajine dish. These are ground beef balls in tomato sauce. I noticed that in the country they serve bread or pastry with almost every meal. Dinner was also fantastic. Well, on the penultimate day, when I prescribed a strict diet to myself, I only ordered Moroccan mint tea at Vintage, unsweetened in my case. I’m attaching a photo of how they serve it here, because I really liked it. You can pay by credit card in the restaurant.

Restaurant Bachir

Restaurant Bachir (750 m/10 minutes walk south of Grand Socco) is one of the best traditional Moroccan restaurants, recommended by locals (and travel guides). And wrong they were not . One evening we went out into town and got over the loss of dinner at the institute. As my stomach problems were at their peak at the time, I opted for the Vegetable Tajine with a whole teapot of mint tea. Vegetables were complemented by potatoes.

I regret that I could not appreciate the taste of the food. Abroad, they use spices completely differently than in Slovakia. Another thing I noticed in Morocco was that food and hot drinks are always brought to your table so hot that they are still bubbling in the plate and in the glass. I paid about 40 mad/4 euros for the bill. I paid in cash, so I can’t tell you for sure if the restaurant accepts credit cards.

Prestige Garden

After arriving in Morocco, we had breakfast at the Prestige Garden cafe (3 km/40 minutes walk southeast of Grand Socco). I ordered a traditional breakfast which included: wholemeal bread, baghrir (a pancake made from semolina or flour, if you bake it properly it is leaky), rghayef (traditional flat bread), harcha (semolina bread), butter, honey, jam and a molten cheese. Of course, there was mint tea, coffee and orange juice. I would easily get used to this kind of breakfast.

Canteen of the institute

The organizer provided food for us in the form of full board. Breakfast was mostly similar to what I mentioned in the paragraph above. We always had a choice of water, juice and hot drinks, which included sweetened or unsweetened Moroccan tea and coffee to drink. Breakfast was followed by lectures, which were separated by a small coffee break. During it, we refreshed ourselves with hot drinks and sweet pastries or cakes. Two-course lunches consisted of a cold starter, usually a salad, and a main course. Also, 2-course dinners included soup and a main course.

I do not remember all the dishes that we had the opportunity to taste, but among them were, for example Groat soup with milk, Beef sausages with tomato sauce, baked potatoes and Moroccan-style rice (with cinnamon and sugar). I tasted some fantastic food on the last day. It was a puff pastry pie filled with minced meat and pistachios. It’s just a shame that Moroccans are such lovers of sweet food that they also poured honey and sprinkled sugar on this salty cake.

In conclusion…

I spent a pleasant week in Tangier, not only in terms of accommodation and food, but also getting to know the attractions of the city and its surroundings.

Read more articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache
• Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue
• Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

Please keep in mind that some of the information may be subject to change.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Tangier – gateway to Africa je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

In Romania, it is probably also allowed to park on the sidewalks (similar to Slovakia). However, here in Slovakia we should park the car so that there is a distance of 1.5 m, or 2 people can walk side by side on the sidewalk respectively. This is probably not the case in Romania, because everyone parks there as they come. And since you are in a big city where there are a lot of people who have a lot of cars and space is scarce, you can park wherever you can.

How to get to Craiova?

Craiova is located in Dolj County, in western Wallachia, in Oltenia, in southwestern Romania, 233 km / 3 hours and 3 minutes by car west of Bucharest.

By car

Craiova has very good transport accessibility. A Class european roads (E70, E79), B Class european road (E574) and several national roads (DN55, DN6B and DN65C) pass through the city:

• A Class european roads:
  • E70 – leads from Georgia to Spain. In Romania, it passes through Bucharest – Craiova – Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Timișoara – Cenad. In the city, it coincides with the national road DN6.
  • E79 – leads from Hungary to Greece. In Romania, it passes through Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. It passes through the city as a national road DN56.
• B Class european road:
  • E574 – which starts in Bacău, passes through Brașov, Pitești and ends in Craiova. In the city it is the national road DN65.
• National roads:
  • DN55 – Craiova – Bechet.
  • DN6B – Craiova – Melinești – Hurezani.
  • DN65C – Craiova – Bălcești – Horezu.

By bus

If you are traveling to the city by bus, you can get off at one of the following stops:

• Autogara Craiova Nord (Pelendava SA) – 2.5 km / 30 minutes walk northeast of the center (at the train station)
• Autogara A. C. O. T. P. Dolj (Bacriz) – 2.5 km / 35 minutes walk northeast of the center (near the train station)
• Metro – 7 km / 14 minutes by car east of the center (at the airport)

By train

The railway station (Gara Craiova) is 2.3 km / 31 minutes walk northeast of the center. The journey from Drobeta-Turnu Severin took 2 hours 9 minutes and the ticket cost 34.70 lei / 7.18 eur / person.

By plane

Craiova International Airport (Aeroportul Internațional Craiova) is located 7 km / 11 minutes by car east of the center. From the airport, you can currently (April 2020) fly to 11 destinations in 8 countries in Europe and the Middle East.

What to do, see and visit in Craiova?

There are three museums in the city, each exhibiting different collections, an art museum and several historic buildings that currently serve as offices or a university.

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Istorie și Arheologie; 500 m / 6 minutes walk west of the center) exhibits, as the name suggests, historical, archaeological and numismatic collections from prehistory to the present. The museum is a kind of small maze, but don’t worry. Although you see the exhibition yourself, you will always have a museum lecturer on your heels, who is ready to answer any questions, will guide you, turns on and turns off the lights. Interestingly conceived exhibition. The ticket price also included a short-term exhibition dedicated to socialist toys. Set aside about 1.5-2 hours for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Științele Naturii; 180 m / 2 minutes walk west of the center) hides in its premises paleontological, mineralogical, botanical, malacological (mollusc science), entomological (insect science), ichthyological (fish science), herpetological (reptile and amphibian science), ornithological (bird science) and teriological (mammal science) collections. On the second floor there is a planetarium and an exhibition dedicated to space and the solar system. We went through the exhibition ourselves. Set aside about one hour for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography (Casa Băniei – Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Etnografie; 550 m / 6 minutes walk southwest of the center) is located in the so-called Băniei House a few meters south of the historical museum. The house is the oldest secular building in the city. It was established at the end of the 15th century. In the museum we can find handicrafts and objects of folk art made of clay, wood, metal and other materials. The basement is occupied by an exhibition focused on the production of bread. Upstairs, the museum exhibits rugs, woven products and religious objects, including icons. The museum was again a maze in which we were guided by a lecturer. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Museum of Art

In Craiova you can also visit the Art Museum Craiova (Muzeul de Artă din Craiova; 260 m / 3 minutes walk north of the center; 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person), which exhibits, among other things, six works by Constantine Brâncuși, I have already written about in the article Târgu Jiu – the city jungle of Oltenia. By the way, Constantine studied at a local art school.

Significant buildings and sculptures of Craiova

There are several squares in the city center and its wider surroundings. In the article, I focused on Michael the Brave’s Square (Piața Mihai Viteazul), I also calculated distances from.

The eastern side of the square is bordered by the building of Dolj County Prefecture (Instituția Prefectului Județului Dolj), which is a symbol of the city of Craiova.

Right on the square is the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave (Statuia lui Mihai Viteazul). Michael the Brave (1558-1601) was the first Romanian prince who united three principalities – Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldova into one unit. He is a national hero for Romanians. He won 4th place in the 100 greatest Romanians TV show.

Just a few meters west from statue of Michael the Brave is a statue of another Romanian prince named Barbu Dimitrie Ştirbei. Barbu was a prince twice, first in the years 1848-1853 and later in the years 1854-1856.

In the western part of the square there is Romanian Opera House (Opera Română Craiova). In front of it is a roundabout, in the middle of which is a third statue, a statue of Charles I (Statuia lui Carol I). Charles I was King of Romania from 1866-1914. He won a silver medal in the TV show of 100 greatest Romanians.

On the way from the center to the station you will walk around the university (Universitatea din Craiova; 500 m / 6 minutes walk east of the center) from the end of the 19th century, which originally served as a courthouse.

Where to stay in Craiova?

In the city we stayed in a cozy Romanian Pensiunea Luisa guest house (1 km / 13 minutes walk southeast of the center and 2.6 km / 35 minutes walk southwest of the train and bus station), located on the outskirts of the center.

The receptionist spoke only Romanian, but she was very willing to explain everything to us. She accommodated us in a double Business Room with a small window overlooking the wall of the opposite building with a private bathroom with shower. As I looked for the plug, I noticed a clump of dust under the bed. Therefore, I preferred not to look at the mattress. A buffet breakfast is served in the restaurant, which is adjacent to the guest house and is interconnected. Free (but very weak) Wi-Fi internet connection was in the whole object. It is not necessary to book a free private parking space, which is available on site.

I’m sorry I didn’t take a photo of the stairs and the corridor at the guest house. If you’ve ever read Dracula by Bram Stoker, this is exactly how I imagined the hotel in Bistrița, where Jonathan Harker stayed on his way to Dracula’s castle.

For one double room for two people for one night we paid 120 lei / 24.82 eur. The price included room, 5% value added tax, 1% city tax and breakfast. In the guest house we paid by credit card in local currency.

Where to eat in Craiova?

We ate in the city in two Italian restaurants – Restaurant Il Forno and Pizzeria Trevi, and between museum tours we had a coffee break in a patisserie. A visit of the confectionery was nothing special and therefore I am not writing about it.

Restaurant Il Forno

Restaurant Il Forno (750 m / 10 minutes walk east of the center) is a pleasant looking modern restaurant in the city center. I tasted Chicken rolls with spinach and feta cheese and roasted potatoes (chicken breast, spinach, feta cheese, cream, garlic, pepper), which were delicious. English speaking staff. After lunch, I recommend you a delicious Italian espresso. We paid 86 lei / 17.79 eur for lunch for 2 people.

Pizzeria Trevi

Pizzeria Trevi (1 km / 13 minutes walk east of the center) is a truly Italian restaurant. A cozy restaurant that uses every square meter of its area. There were tables with checkered tablecloths, serving tables, Italian-speaking staff and, of course, an Italian menu. I tasted Partenopea pasta. It is a pasta with onion-based tomato sauce with tuna and olives. The taste is enhanced by capers and the portion is covered with grated Parmesan cheese. The pasta was very tasty and rich. We paid 100 lei / 20.69 eur for dinner for 2 people.

After visiting the city of Craiova, I am probably most sorry that we did not have time to visit the Art museum. I would have also liked to walk through the large park, which is situated south of the center. Instead, the cold February weather „drove us“ to heated museums and restaurants.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid on 1 April 2020 (1 eur = 4.8340 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Craiova – the capital of Oltenia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

In Drobeta we were supposed to have the warmest weather from our entire holiday. There should have been an incredible 15! degrees. Actually, there was those 15 degrees, but there was such an incredible wind blowing in the city that we didn’t enjoy the „warm“ weather so much.

How to get to Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

Drobeta-Turnu Severin is located in western Wallachia, Oltenia region, in southwestern Romania, administratively in Mehedinți County.

By car

Severin lies at the crossroads of national roads DN6 and DN67. The national road DN6, which is also part of the European road E70, leads on the route Bucharest – Craiova – Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Timișoara. The DN67 national road leads from Drobeta-Turnu Severin via Târgu Jiu to Râmnicu Vâlcea.

By bus

If you travel to Drobeta by bus, you can get off at the bus station, or one of the following stops:

• Main bus station (Autogara Transport Public Urban Drobeta SA) – 2 km / 23 minutes walk east of the city center and 3 km / 38 minutes walk northeast of the railway station.
• Agentia ,,Drobeta,,Dr. Tr. Sev. – at the main bus station,
• Parcare Interex – at the main bus station,
• Generala nr. 2 (also known as B-dul Tudor Vladimirescu) – 2 km / 25 minutes walk west of the bus station and 280 m / 4 minutes walk north of the Water Tower, ie closest to the center.

The bus journey from Târgu Jiu took 2 hours 15 minutes and the ticket cost 24 lei / 4.96 eur / person.

By train

The railway station (Gara Drobeta-Turnu Severin) is located 1.2 km / 15 minutes walk southwest of the city center.

Where to get information in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

The Tourist Information Center is just a few steps walking north of the medieval fortress of Severin.

What to do, see and visit in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

Severin‚s primary offer is somewhat richer, perhaps more attractive than in other cities in western Wallachia. In the city you will find the Iron Gates Region Museum, the Medieval Fortress of Severin and the Water Tower.

Iron Gates Region Museum

Iron Gates Region Museum (Muzeul Regiunii Porților de Fier) exhibits its collections in several buildings – the Multifunctional Pavilion, the Archaeological Park and the Turbine Museum in Gura Văii.

Multifunctional pavilion

The Multifunctional Pavilion (Pavilionul Multifuncțional – Muzeul Regiunii Porților De Fier; 1.3 km / 16 minutes walk east of the center) is the main building of the museum. A book guide attracted us to the aquarium with fish from the Danube in addition to historical, archaeological or ethnographic collections. In the end, we didn’t see any of it. The museum is currently closed due to reconstruction and offers only 4 short-term exhibitions:

• traditional housing in the Mehedinți region – a selection from ethnographic collections
• paintings „Dumitru Ghiață“ – a selection of 46 paintings from the collections of the Museum of Art,
• Roman cuisine – a selection of historical and archaeological collections,
• stuffed birds – a selection of natural science collections.

Admission is 4 lei / 0.83 eur / person.

Archaeological park

The Archaeological Park (Parcul Arheologic – Muzeul Regiunii Porților De Fier) is located directly at the Multifunctional Pavilion. The remains of a Roman camp, Traian’s Bridge, a Roman amphitheater, a Roman bath and a medieval church were found in the park.

The fortress was the first Roman camp in the territory of Dacia and served to defend the Traian’s Bridge. Apollodorus of Damascus had built a bridge over the Danube on the orders of Emperor Traian as early as 102-105 AD. It was the largest bridge in antiquity, connecting two Roman provinces – Dacia (north of the Danube) and Moesia (south of the Danube). Two basic foothills have been preserved from the bridge, one on the Romanian side and one on the Serbian side.

The rest of the Traian’s bridge is forever buried at the bottom of the Danube, which rose in these places by 8-10 m after the construction of a hydroelectric power plant. The bridge is even depicted on Traian’s Column in Rome. The amphitheater was used to train Roman legionaries. After training, they could recover in a nearby spa. You walk through the park yourself. There are information boards in Romanian and English throughout the complex. Admission is 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person.

Gallery:

Turbine Museum in Gura Văii

The Turbine Museum in Gura Văii (Muzeul Turbinelor de la Gura Văii; 12 km / 14 minutes by car northwest of the city center) is located in the Iron Gates hydroelectric power plant in the village of Gura Văii, managed by Drobeta. In addition to the permanent historical and archaeological exposition, it also offers visitors temporary exhibitions from ethnographic, natural history collections and a turbine hall. Thanks to the absent bus from Târgu Jiu and reviews on the Internet, we finally missed the tour of the museum and preferred the attractions in the city. Admission is 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person.

Sailing in these places on the Danube was still dangerous. The river wound through the gorge between the rocks and, in addition, swirls formed in it. In the second half of the 20th century, Romania agreed with Yugoslavia (now Serbia) to build a hydroelectric power plant. It was established in the years 1960-1972 and is the largest dam power plant on the Danube and one of the largest in Europe. Its construction caused the river level to rise by 33 m, flooding 10 places on the Romanian and 7 places on the Serbian bank, including the historic part of Orșova and the Turkish island of Ada Kaleh.

The medieval fortress of Severin

The medieval fortress of Severin (Cetatea Medievală a Severinului; 650 m / 8 minutes walk south of the center) is probably the first stone fortress in Romania. The fortress was built by the king Ladislaus I of Hungary at the end of the 11th century for defense in case of attacks by Kumani and Pechenegs. It later protected from the Turkish invasion. After conquering the fortress, the Turks ordered its demolition. At present, you can walk along its walls for free.

Water Tower

The Water Tower (Castelul de Apă; 350 m / 5 minutes walk north of the center) was built in 1910. Its main function was to supply the city of Severin with water. It was inaugurated four years later and served its mission until 1980. During World War I it served as an observatory for German soldiers. The tower is 27 m high.

From the tower there is a view of the regular network of city streets, the Danube and the opposite Serbia. There is a different short-term exhibition on each floor of the tower. On the top floor it was an exhibition of historical photographs of old Drobeta, on other floors an exhibition dedicated to the Serbian town of Negotin and works of art school students. On the ground floor there is a souvenir shop and there was an exhibition of photographs of regional churches and monasteries. Admission is 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person.

Where to stay in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

Mon Cheri guest house is located 900 m / 11 minutes walk northwest of the city center; 1.3 km / 17 minutes walk north of the train station and 2.2 km / 30 minutes walk west of the bus station.

We stayed in a double room with a balcony and a view of the main road with a private bathroom with shower. The room was furnished with older furniture, but I guess I slept here on the best mattress in the whole of Oltenia. The room smelled of cigarettes a bit, but we have become accustomed in Romania. Good English-speaking receptionist, but only Romanian-speaking waitress. Breakfast is also served at the guest house. It is not included in the price of accommodation. The waitress, who was probably also a cook, prepared a tasty omelette for us.

For one double room for 1 night for 2 people we paid 130 lei / 26.88 eur. The price includes room, 5% value added tax, 1% city tax. You can pay at the guest house by card. The price does not include breakfast. For breakfast for 2 people we paid 29 ron / 6 eur. It is not necessary to book a space in the free public car park, which is available on site. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the guest house.

Where to eat in Drobeta-Turnu Severin?

We tried 2 restaurants and one café in the city.

Restaurant & Lounge 16,50

Restaurant & Lounge 16.50 (400 m / 5 minutes walk west of the center) is a luxurious-looking restaurant almost in the city center. We were probably the first guests to come to dinner that day. In some rooms it was not even lit. It was in one, but waiters were sitting and smoking there (again the cigarette smoke). The smoke was perceived a bit in the room where we were eating. We didn’t let ourselves be discouraged, even though I thought we’d get up and go somewhere else. In the end, it was the restaurant where we ate the best. Again, only Romanian-speaking staff. I tasted the specialty of the house, Chicken wok (chicken breast, pepper, eggplant, pumpkin, garlic, sweet chili sauce, basmati rice).

We also tasted dessert. We were very pleased to see the traditional Romanian dessert Papanași (something like Slovak doughnuts) in the menu, which is usually served here with sweet cream and blueberries. After dinner we went for a walk along the Danube embankment. Unfortunately, the waterfront is not arranged in the same way as in other cities in Romania. But the city and its sights are illuminated nicely at night. We paid 150 lei / 31.02 eur for dinner for 2 people.

Rustic Restaurant

The restaurant where we wanted to eat lunch the next day was closed. We therefore went to the nearest restaurant (Rustic; 260 m / 3 minutes walk southwest of the center) in the area. Based on personal experience, I can conclude that the restaurant is true to its name. After entering, I felt like I had moved back in time a few decades. Large unwashed windows (those windows were probably washed, only the glass could be so old that it was not really visible through it), everywhere full of large green dusty plants, long wooden tables, quasi-wooden roofs with folk motifs above the tables, older, only Romanian speaking lady waitress and lunch price for 2 people lower than for two coffees elsewhere in the city.

We tasted the daily menu: vegetable soup and broth (it was the same vegetable soup, they just put sliced chicken in it). The main course was a slice of pork and a slice of chicken. The oil on which the meat was prepared, I guess, remembered the socialist era. We could choose potatoes in any way as a side dish. I’m glad waitress picked fries for us. Of course, dessert can’t be missed after the main course. This was followed by popular pancakes. I probably wouldn’t go back to the restaurant for the food, but for the experience, or perhaps even better the feeling. We paid 40 lei / 8.27 eur for lunch for 2 people.

Ada Kaleh Café

The Turkish Ada Kaleh café is located right in the city center. We ordered an original Turkish coffee (not poured, but prepared in cezve and sand!) with baklava. I was a little sorry that if it hadn’t been for the unique environment, I would get the feeling that I was just in any other café in Romania. We paid 42 lei / 8.69 eur for a bill for 2 people.

I can’t say that Drobeta-Turnu Severin did not meet my expectations. It is possible I probably just had idealized the city just before I arrived. I am convinced that during the summer, when it is nice, the city has a completely different atmosphere. I don’t want to exaggerate, maybe it would have remind me of a seaside, but there might definitely be terraces everywhere and full of people and warm and fragrant. But I’m idealizing it again.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid as of March 24, 2020 (1 eur = 4.8357 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Drobeta-Turnu Severin on the Danube bank and just a jump to Serbia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Târgu Jiu?

Târgu Jiu is located in western Wallachia, the Oltenia region, in southwestern Romania.

By car

The city is crossed by 2 national roads (DN) – DN66, which is part of the European road E79 and DN67. The European road E79 starts in Hungary and ends in Greece. In Romania it passes through the cities of Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. National road DN67 runs on the route Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Târgu Jiu – Râmnicu Valcea.

By bus

The bus station (Autogara Expres Transport SA) is located 300 m / 3 minutes walk south of the railway station and 1.5 km / 20 minutes walk southeast of the city center. Traveling by bus from Deva took 3 hours and 13 minutes. The ticket cost 37 RON / 7.64 EUR / person.

By train

You will find the train station (Gara Târgu Jiu) 300 m / 3 minutes walk north of the bus station and 1.2 km / 15 minutes walk southeast of the city center.

Where to get information in Târgu Jiu?

The Tourist Information Center (Info Târgu Jiu; 150 m / 2 minutes walk west of the city center) is located next to the Gorj County Council (Consiliul Județean Gorj) in a side street.

What to do, see and visit in Târgu Jiu?

Târgu Jiu is known for its sculptural ensemble by Constantin Brâncuși. In addition, there are the County Museum and Art Gallery, as in other cities not only in Romania, too.

Sculptural Ensemble of Constantin Brâncuși at Târgu Jiu

Sculptural Ensemble of Constantin Brâncuși at Târgu Jiu (Ansamblul sculptural Constantin Brâncuși de la Târgu-Jiu) or the Monumental Ensemble “The Path of Heroes” from Târgu Jiu is a homage to Romanian World War I soldiers who fell on the Jiu river bank in 1916. Their author, Constantin Brâncuși, created 4 statues – Endless Column, Gate of Kisses, Alley of Chairs, and Table of Silence, which are arranged on a nearly 1.5 km long west-east axis. By the way, the ensemble is inscribed on the Tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage.

Who was Constantin Brâncuși?

Constantin Brâncuși (1876-1957) was a Romanian sculptor of abstract expressionism, painter and photographer. He is one of the greatest sculptors of the 20th century. In his works he combined Romanian folk art and Parisian avant-garde. He worked in the workshop of the prominent French sculptor Auguste Rodin. In the period of socialist realism, his works were signed as a decadent bourgeoisie and threatened with extinction. Only a few decades later the author was understood. His works can be found in art museums in Bucharest, New York or Philadelphia. He was buried at the Montparnasse Cemetery in Paris. The name Constantin Brâncuși bear several streets across Romania and Moldova. The sculptor and his works appeared on postage stamps, banknotes and commemorative coins.

Table of Silence

You would have been able to see from the Table of Silence to the Endless Column if the Church of St. Peter and Paul had it not been for in the way. All the works were unveiled on October 27, 1938. They are the only works of the author that you can admire in situ. The artist was originally supposed to create 12 sculptures, but before his death, he completed only four.

The Endless Column

The Endless Column (Coloana Infinitului) has a height of 29.35 m, consisting of 16 (respectively 15 and one half module at the bottom and one half module at the top) of the overlapping octahedra modules. The Endless Column represents an endless sacrifice of Romanian soldiers. The statue is a stylization of burial columns (according to another version of wooden columns of peasant verandas), typical for southern Romania.

I read somewhere that if you stand close to the column and turn your head upwards, it will really appear endless. So I wanted to try it. (Un)luckily, Brâncuși‚s works are a national heritage for the Romanians and are guarded by police 24 hours a day.

The Gate of Kisses

The Gate of Kisses (Poarta sărutului) is a triumphal arch, located at the beginning of the city park. The gate has a special meaning for Romanians. It is an entry into life, but also an exit from it. It is therefore a transition to another life. The two halves of the circle on each side of the columns are a kiss symbol.

The Alley of chairs

The Alley of chairs (Aleea scaunelor) consists of 30 stone chairs arranged in triples and 2 stone benches on both sides of the pavement. The sculpture connects the Table of Silence with the Gate of Kisses.

The Table of Silence

At the opposite end of the city park as the Gate of Kisses stands The Table of Silence (Masa tăcerii). It represents the moment before the battle which the attendees will participate in. Time is a circular arrangement of 12 hourglass chairs.

Another interpretation says that the Table of Silence is a symbol of the Last Supper. The twelve chairs are for the 12 apostles and the table itself represents Jesus Christ.

Gorj County Museum Alexander Ștefulescu

Gorj County Museum Alexander Ștefulescu (Muzeul Județean Gorj „Alexandru Ștefulescu“) saves several collections and makes it available to visitors in several museums and memorial houses across the county. It exhibits historical and archaeological collections at the Museum of History and Archaeology Alexander Ștefulescu (Muzeul de istorie și arheologie Alexandru Ștefulescu). The art collections can be found in the Art Gallery (Muzeul de Artă), which focuses on the fine art of Romanian artists from the 17th century to the present. Meet Brâncuși’s personality here with a few pictures of his life.

Where to stay in Târgu Jiu?

Of all accommodation facilities in Oltenia we were accommodated in, I rate the Palace Hotel (or also SC Lexi Star SRL Hotel; 700 m / 9 minutes walk west of the bus and railway station and 1.2 km / 16 minutes walk south of the city center) as the best. English speaking receptionist. Spacious, elegantly furnished double room with city view with private bathroom with shower. For breakfast, they will prepare eggs in any way and you can also choose from the buffet.

In the city they used to being cozy at warm. They heated our room as if it was freezing outside. We managed to lower the heating a little, but not shut it down completely. With 2 hours later the room was still so warm that there was nothing left to do but to sleep in the middle of February with the window open. You don’t have to worry, we certainly didn’t freeze. For a moment I felt like it was summer outside.

Free private parking is possible on site. Reservation is needed. Wi-Fi is available in all areas and is free of charge. For one double room for 1 night for 2 people we paid 140 RON / 28,90 EUR. The price includes room, value added tax, city tax and breakfast for 2 persons. You can only pay cash in local currency at the hotel.

Where to eat in Târgu Jiu?

We ate in the city in two traditional Romanian restaurants – Pensiunea Antique and Madam.

Pensiunea Antique

Pensiunea Antique, a traditional Romanian restaurant, is located in the city center opposite the Gate of Kisses. We arrived at the restaurant at lunchtime when they were serving the daily menu. The menu consisted of soup, main course, salad, dessert and drink. We had 2 meals to choose from.

The staff did not speak English, so we had to translate the food names quickly through google to have at least an idea of what we were ordering. But the waiter arrived fast enough, so we didn’t manage to translate everything. Finally, we chose both options, with the fact that we will be surprised. I am fascinated by the fact that even if the staff does not speak English or understands just a little bit you if you are trying to speak Romanian, „Țuică“ (traditional Romanian plum distillate, usually 40-55%) is understood by everyone. 🙂

We tasted Broth with meatballs (liver dumplings?) and Tripe soup. Menu number 1 was Roast pork chop with green pepper sauce and mashed potatoes with the cabbage salad. They served Tiramisu for dessert. Menu number 2 was Grilled chicken with rice and vegetables. In addition, mixed vegetable salad and they served Pancakes with homemade jam for dessert.

You can choose a drink of your choice – mineral water or draft beer to the daily menu. After lunch I ordered coffee, but since the waiter didn’t understand us very much, he brought us two coffees. For the lunch we paid 87 RON / 17,96 EUR. Well, let me tell you, we were literally „sated„. All calories we burned while walking through the city.

Madam

For dinner I chose Madam restaurant, which is also in the city center. Very nicely furnished and modern restaurant with English speaking service. The space is divided by large wine racks, on the walls are photographs with works by Brâncuși. I tasted Baked trout with salt milk rice. For the dinner for 2 people we paid 97,50 RON / 20,13 EUR.

Although we didn’t spend a lot of time in the city, I really liked it here. I dare say that city is such a hidden jewel of the Oltenia region. If I had to choose even one city in western Wallachia to visit again, it would definitely be Târgu Jiu.

The prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia on 19 March 2020 (1 EUR = 4.8445 RON).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Târgu Jiu – city jungle of Oltenia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.