How to get to Tétouan?

Tétouan (63 km/1 hour 20 minutes drive southeast of Tangier, which was our starting point) is located in northern Morocco.

What to do, see and visit in Tétouan?

Tétouan‚s medina, originally known as Titawin, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List in 1997.

In the Islamic period from the 8th century onwards, Tétouan was of special importance as it was located on an important road that connected Andalusia in Spain with the interior of Morocco. In addition to 2 regions, the city thus also connected 2 cultures – Spanish and Arab and 2 parts of the world – European and African.

Ensanche

The bus dropped us off in the Ensanche district (west of the medina). During the Spanish protectorate (1912-1956), the city was rebuilt by refugees who were expelled by the Spanish. This Andalusian influence was manifested in urbanism, architecture and monumental art. Even today, the School of Arts and Crafts (Dar Sanaa) and the National Institute of Fine Arts (Institute National Des Beaux Arts) operate in the city.

Archaeological Museum of Tétouan

The axis of the district is the wide Avenue Mohamed V, which connects Plaza Muley El Mehdi (Primo Rivera) and Place El Mechouar. On the street you will find hotels, shops and restaurants. If you take a short detour north from the boulevard, you will arrive at the Archaeological Museum of Tétouan (Musée Archeologique De Tétouan; 240 meters/3 minutes walk west of Place El Mechouar). Most of the exhibits come from excavations that took place in the 1930s. Here you will explore finds from the archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache. Explanations are in Arabic, French and Spanish. The ticket costs 10 mad/1 euro/person.

Royal Palace at Place El Mechouar

The dominant feature of Place El Mechouar is the royal palace in its eastern part. Although part of the square around the palace and the palace itself are closed to the public, there is still a very good view of the palace and the city offers plenty of other places where you can wander. There are 4 pillars in front of the palace. These are light columns in Art Nouveau style, which we assume were designed by Enrique Nieto, a student of Antoni Gaudí.

Opposite the palace there are 2 springs where you can get water. You can recognize the springs thanks to the numerous Moroccan flags that fly in front of them and the carved decorations around them. These represent the Hands of Fatima to ward off the evil eye.

Old Town (Medina)

You enter the old town from the square through the Bab rouah gate. Although the medina is one of the smallest in Morocco, it has been preserved in an almost unchanged form until now. Even today, the Medina is protected by 5 km long walls with 7 gates and fortified towers, the so-called borj, which arose in the 18th century. The strict layout of the medina is characterized by the main and smaller side streets. Main streets connect gates and public buildings, giving access to squares, craft and commercial districts. Smaller streets lead to passageways and semi-private residential areas.

Museum of Religious Heritage

After wandering the medina’s regular network of alleyways, we visited the Museum of Religious Heritage (Musée du patrimoine religieux; 280 meters/4 minutes walk northeast of Place El Mechouar). The four wings of the museum connect around the so-called Moroccan garden. There is a garden inside the building (atrium). In the wings around the garden, you will learn about the religious history of Morocco. In addition to Arabic and French, the explanations were also in English. After the tour, I recommend a glass of mint tea in the square in front of the museum.

Lebbadi House or Lebbadi Palace

The Lebbadi House or Lebbadi Palace (450 meters/5 minutes walk east of Place El Mechouar) was built in 1903. The palace is a typical example of Andalusian-style residential architecture with a central courtyard, columns and arches. They provide temporary accommodation in the house. Upstairs I saw probably the most carpets in one place, while downstairs they sold Moroccan handicrafts.

The owner or operator of the house did not forget to ask me for a tip in the cash register on one floor, and on the next one he asked me just to be sure if I had really contributed.

Dar El Oddi

The old family house Dar El Oddi (400 meters/5 minutes walk east of Place El Mechouar) from the 1920s, which fell into disrepair, was converted into a cultural space and inaugurated in 2018. Another house they built in the Andalusian style. You will find a tile with a different pattern on almost every square meter. After the reconstruction, they preserved the original kitchen on the ground floor. The center exhibits maps, pictures, stamps and postcards of Tétouan in the years 1525-1955. The tour allows you to go up to the roof of the house with a large terrace, from which it is just one jump to any other roof of the medina. There is a café and a souvenir shop on the ground floor. The ticket costs 25 mad/2.50 euros/person.

Bab Okla Ethnographic Museum

The Bab Okla Ethnographic Museum (Musée Ethnographique Bab Okla; 550 meters/6 minutes walk east of Place El Mechouar) gets its name from the gate through which you enter the medina from the east. Although the museum was founded in 1928, it is located in the historical fortress, which was built a century earlier (1830-1831). During the tour, you will get to know the city’s history and cultural specifics. The exposition consists of 3 parts:

1. the geography and history of Tétouan from the 15th century through the period of prosperity from the end of the 16th to the beginning of the 18th century, the decline in the 18th century to the Spanish period and the modern age in the 19th and 20th centuries,
2. urban planning of the medina and its architectural elements,
3. the arts and crafts of the medina.

Although in Dar el Oddi we were welcomed on the roof with a terrace, in the ethnographic museum entry to the roof was strictly prohibited. And it’s such a shame when from the roof you can see the Mediterranean Sea on one side and the mighty peaks of the Rif Mountains on the other. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person.

Tannery

When you hear Morocco, (almost) everyone immediately thinks of Fez and its square full of vats filled to the top with water, each a different color. Tétouan also has its own „tannery“ (450 meters/6 minutes walk north of Place El Mechouar). It is smaller, but still. Unfortunately, we did not visit the tannery, but I heard that the stench that reigns there during the processing of leather, I cannot even imagine. There is a market near the tannery where you can buy these leather products.

After visiting the city of Tétouan …

I confess that after visiting Tétouan I had to google why it is in UNESCO. No one told us this during the tour of the city and its museums. Tétouan is not an ugly city and neither is its medina. In Morocco, however, we visited the medinas, which I personally liked much more. The Andalusian style and Moroccan enclosed gardens were amazing and I would definitely visit the site again for them.

Also read these articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• Tangier – gateway to Africa
• The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache
• Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Chefchaouen?

Chefchaouen is located (112 km/2 hours 11 minutes drive southeast of Tangier, which was our starting point) in northern Morocco.

What to do, see and visit in Chefchaouen?

Chefchaouen is known for the blue facades of its houses that squat beneath the wooded hills of the Rif Mountains. Apart from a walk in the old town (medina), the city doesn’t offer much.

Bab El Mahrouk gate

We started the tour north of the medina, from where we could take pictures of part of the city. Unfortunately, it was not the typical view from which you have a blue city in the desert like in the palm of your hand. I mention the more famous one at the end of the article. We entered the medina through the gate (Bab El Mahrouk; 550 m/11 minutes walk north of Place Outa El Hamam). Immediately after entering, we understood why Chefchaouen has the epithet blue city. They painted (almost) all the facades of the houses blue. Despite how popular the city is among visitors, here and there I managed to find an empty street.

Chefchaouen is not located by the sea like the other cities we visited. Therefore, high temperatures prevailed here in the afternoon as well. The narrow streets provided shelter from the scorching sun and the air flowed faster in them.

Bab El Onsar Gate and Ral Elma Park

From the northeast, you can reach the medina through another gate (Bab El Onsar; 500 m/7 minutes walk northeast of Place Outa El Hamam). This gate was also built in the 16th century. It was really busy around the gate. Some tried on Moroccan costumes, in which they were then photographed, artists sold their works here, visitors flocked from all sides. From this gate, it is also the closest to the photogenic Ras Elma park (650 m/9 minutes walk northeast of Place Outa El Hamam). Here, the waterfall springs from under the building that stands above it.

Locals were not as willing to pose here as in other Moroccan cities. Some even asked for small change for the photo.

The water of the Fouara stream gradually flows down the narrow valley below until it passes through the so-called local laundry, a place where householders wash clothes and carpets since time immemorial. At every turn there were stalls with souvenirs and others where they prepared fresh orange juice for you. The blue city on the hill is indeed so photogenic that visitors want to take pictures in every alleyway on every single step. It can feel a bit annoying at times when you are moving from one place to another.

Place Outa El Hamam

The center of the medina is Place Outa El Hamam. In the center of the square there is a fountain with a small pond. Dominating the southern part of the buildings are the fortress (Kasbah), which houses the Ethnographic Museum (Musée Ethnographique de Chefchaouen) and the Grand Mosque (Grand Mosquée), from which the prayer was carried throughout the square. We also ended our city tour in the square with a cup of hot mint tea.

Kasbah and Grand Mosque

The fortress from the 15th century functioned as a prison, today it hosts a small art gallery. Go up to the observation deck of the Portuguese Tower, from which you can see the medina and the surrounding hills. Explanations in the tower are in Arabic, French and Spanish. The ticket costs 60 mad/6 euros/person. The Grand Mosque, like other mosques, is closed to non-Muslims.

La Plaza de sidi Belhassen square

If you enter the alley between the mosque and the fortress, you will find yourself in La Plaza de sidi Belhassen. The square became famous for the wool market. It was an annual market for animal sacrifice until the late 1960s.

Place El Haouta

Only 300 m/5 minutes walk northwest of Place Outa El Hamam is another smaller square, Place El Haouta. Although you won’t find any significant attractions in the square, according to the photos on the Internet, it looks very picturesque.

Bab El Sor and Bab El Ain gates

When leaving the medina, we passed through 2 more gates – Bab El Sor (120 m/1 minute walk west of Place Outa El Hamam) and Bab El Ain (280 m/3 minutes walk west of Place Outa El Hamam). At the second gate, stop for a delicious ice cream.

Spanish Mosque

The mosque (1.3 km/21 minutes walk southeast of Place Outa El Hamam) was built by the Spanish in the 1920s. Although it never served its original purpose, it offers one of the best views of Chefchaouen. All those illustrative photos of the city that you can find on the Internet come from this location.

In conclusion …

I regret that we did not visit several interesting sites in the city of Chefchaouen. The guide more or less „dragged“ us up and down the alleys, as if he didn’t know where he wanted to go.

Opposite the public toilets stands the shop of a Moroccan. I couldn’t believe my eyes, how casually and naturally he told us about the square that is adjacent to his store, about its history and the buildings that stand on it. I just thought to myself: „It’s a shame that this gentleman didn’t accompany us through the city.“ Then the tour would have looked completely different.

Also read these articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• Tangier – gateway to Africa
• The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache
• Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

A bit of the history of the Lixus archaeological site

In the Phoenicians times, Lixus is considered one of the largest cities in the western Mediterranean and the oldest city in Morocco. Archaeologists have found objects in the site that were imported from all over the Mediterranean. In the 6th century BC the city was attacked by the Carthaginians and remained in it until the establishment of the Roman Empire in 40 AD. Gold, ivory and slaves were traded in the city. On the other hand, salt, wine, olives, fish sauce and wild animals were exported from Lixus to amphitheatres throughout the Roman Empire. During this period, several private and public buildings were built in the city.

During the times of the Roman Empire, the city experienced its greatest prosperity. Thermal baths, temples, basilica, amphitheater and fortifications were added. After the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century AD the so-called the dark age, from which we have not preserved many finds. We know that the industrial district functioned until the beginning of the 5th century and that a community of Christians lived in the city before the arrival of the Muslims. Muslims occupied the city until the 14th century. An Islamic villa with an atrium, a mosque, waste pits and ceramics have been preserved from this period.

Did you know that …

…according to ancient Greek fables and myths, Heracles‚ last task was to bring 3 golden apples that guaranteed eternal life from the garden of the Hesperides? The apples were guarded by the nymphs Hesperides, daughters of the Titan Atlas. Giant Atlas had to carry the entire firmament on his shoulders forever as a punishment for rebelling against the gods. The garden was allegedly located in the city of Lixus. And the golden apples could be Moroccan tangerines.

Tour of the Lixus archaeological site

We started the tour at the Lixus Museum (Museo di Lixus). In several rooms, you will get to know the development of the site and the most important finds.

Industrial district

Then the guide took us to the industrial district. I’m not talking about any factories, but artisan workshops. They specialized in the processing of fish meat and the production of fish sauces (garum – fish sauce made from fermented fish). The neighborhood is located near the river and is believed to have been the city’s river port. The district consists of 10 workshops and 150 fish maceration tanks. Workshops were said to be among the largest of their kind in the entire Mediterranean and operated for almost half a millennium.

As you walk around the tanks, be careful not to accidentally fall into one of them and end up in fish sauce. The surroundings are not secured in any way.

Amphitheater

From the industrial district, we continued further up the hill until the amphitheater and public baths began to appear in front of us. In the amphitheater, fights between gladiators and wild animals took place. The public baths, like other discovered Roman baths, consist of an antechamber, cold and warm rooms and pools. The bath was decorated with marble and wall paintings. Only a few meters above the amphitheater stand the last remains of the basilica.

Residential district

Inhabitants of the city of Lixus lived at the very top of the hill. The residential district consisted mainly of spacious and richly decorated Roman houses with colonnaded courtyards. The houses were inhabited by the owners of meat workshops and farms around the city. Houses were characterized by geometric and figural mosaics, wall paintings and private baths. The mosaics discovered here are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum in Tétouan.

We didn’t see much of the residential area. Grass and small bushes were really everywhere. In some places they even grew out of the walls.

Palace complex

As you approach the palace complex from the residential area, you will still see the last wall that protects it today. The complex consisted of a palace with annexes, a temple, thermal baths with an ancient wrestling arena, an Islamic villa, a mosque, drinking water storage tanks, the remains of an aqueduct, pre-Roman houses and a necropolis. The remains of palace buildings represent all the periods that the site has gone through. From the Phoenicians to the 14th century, when the inhabitants left the site to move to the new town of Larache.

From the entire location, you will have its surroundings in the palm of your hand. You’ll see the Loukkos River winding its way through the landscape before emptying into the Atlantic on the horizon. You will not miss the sea salt tanks and the seaside town of Larache.

Useful information

Explanations are only in Arabic and French. We English speaking visitors were given a paper from which we learned more about the history and the site. The site’s official website is also only in French. The ticket costs 60 mad/6 euros/person.

What to do, see and visit in Larache?

Despite the fact that Larache is only 7 km/12 minutes by car west from the archaeological site of Lixus, we did not visit the city. Maybe we didn’t have to sit at the hotel for two hours after lunch. It doesn’t matter. I hope I will have the opportunity to visit this city again.

What we know about the city is that it was occupied by the Spanish in the 17th century and its inhabitants built ships for corsairs. In 1911, Larache became the main port of the Spanish protectorate.

Place de la Liberation

The center of the city is the Place de la Libération square. It is lined with cafes where locals spend a long time sipping mint tea.

Old Town (Medina)

Similar to other cities in Morocco, the old city in the form of a medina has been preserved in Larache. It is entered through the Bab Al Khemis gate. The narrow streets converge on the Zoco de la Alcaiceria square, which functions as a market. To the north of the medina is the ruined Saadian fortress, and to the south is a viewpoint.

Terrasse Corniche

700 m/8 minutes walk from the Place de la Libération is the view of the Terrasse Corniche. The viewpoint offers a view of the old town of Larache, the mouth of the Loukkos river and the Atlantic.

Ras R’mel Beach (Plage Ras R’mel)

You won’t find many places with gradual access to the sea directly in the city. However, nearby (11 km/17 minutes by car north of Place de la Libération, just 1.5 km as the crow flies) you will find Ras R’mel beach. A boat runs across the mouth of the Loukkos River to take you from one bank to the other. The trip should cost around 10 mad/1 euro/person.

In the city, you can still see a fortress from the 17th century, which is closed to the public, a gallery in the medina, a music conservatory, which you can only see from the outside, and the grave of the French writer Jean Genet.

In conclusion …

The ravages of time have already taken their toll on the archaeological site of Lixus. I confess that I have already visited more attractive archaeological sites than Lixus. In them, they clearly defined where visitors can move and where their entry is already prohibited. As visitors, we got everywhere in Lixus. I didn’t have such a strong need to climb all the stones and take pictures on all the walls, which are slowly (some maybe quickly due to the actions of others), but definitely falling apart.

Several speakers spoke about sustainability during the academy. I apologize in advance, I don’t want to offend anyone, but if the tours of the archaeological site of Lixus continue as they are and no protective measures are taken, the site, which has survived for thousands of years, will surely disappear sooner or later.

Also read these articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• Tangier – gateway to Africa
• Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue
• Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Tangier?

How to get to the city of Tangier by different means of transport – by car, train, plane or ship.

By car

Tangier is located 252 km/2 hours 46 minutes by car northeast of Rabat, the capital of Morocco. The route is charged.

By train

It is connected to Casablanca, Morocco‚s largest city, by the high-speed TGV train, which travels at a speed of up to 320 km/h. So instead of the original 4 hours and 45 minutes, the journey takes only 2 hours and 10 minutes. The journey to Rabat was shortened from the original 3 hours and 45 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes. You can buy tickets directly at railway stations in Morocco. The plan is to extend the line through Marrakesh to Agadir, 800 km southwest of Tangier. This will mean that the journey to Marrakech, which today takes more than 10 hours, will be shortened to 4 hours and 45 minutes.

By plane

I flew from Aeroport de València in Valencia, Spain to L’aéroport international de Tanger-Ibn Batouta in Tangier, Morocco. The flight lasted an average of 1 hour and 25 minutes. Due to the time difference of 1 hour, the flight actually took 25 minutes there and 2 hours and 20 minutes back. The return ticket cost 143.96 euros. The price included 1 checked bag up to 20 kg and 1 hand bag that fit under the seat in front of me. In addition, I could choose a seat on the plane both on the way there and back. I checked in online a few days before my flight.

Read in the article Morocco before the 1st visit what I experienced at Tangier airport!

By ship

The Spanish city of Tarifa (40 km northeast) is only 45 minutes away by ferry from Tangier. The route crosses country borders and the starting point (Tarifa) is in a different time zone.

What to do, see and visit in Tangier?

When visiting Tangier, don’t miss the old town (medina) with its gates, viewpoints and adjacent squares. You can also choose from museums, galleries, cultural centers or just relax on the beach.

Old Town (Medina)

We will start the tour of Tangier by entering through the gate (Bab Al Kasba) in the northwestern part of the medina. The fortress tower (Borj Al Kasba) stands on the left in front of the gate. After entering, you will find yourself at the Spanish Camp Square (La place du Tabor espagnol). The dominant feature of the square is the Borj Naam tower, which houses the exhibition dedicated to Ibn Battouta (Espace d’Exposition de la mémoire d’Ibn Battouta). He was an important traveller of the 14th century. In 29 years, he travelled to the current 44 countries from North Africa to the Far East.

Kasbah Museum or Kasbah Museum of Mediterranean Cultures (Musée de la Kasbah)

Continue west from the exhibition and you will pass the Governor’s Palace (Le palais du gouverneur) on your right. It currently provides its premises for the city’s archaeological museum and exhibition spaces for contemporary art (Musée de la Kasbah – Espace d’art contemporain). It maps the history of the city from prehistoric times to the 19th century. Explanations are only in Arabic and French. Unfortunately, the website of the National Museum Foundation is only in French. The entrance to the museum is from the Place de la Kasbah square. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person.

The gates of the Place de la Kasbah square

Three gates open onto the square. The Bab Al Bahr Sea Gate in the northern part of the square allows you to step out of the medina and enjoy the view of the new fishing port and the Strait of Gibraltar. Opposite it, in the southern part of the square, is the Bab el-Assa gate, which will take you deeper into the medina. Finally, there is the 3rd Bab Haha gate, beyond which after a few meters you will find yourself in the inconspicuous Place Amrah square, which leads to several streets of the medina. The main street still belongs to traditional craft workshops.

Mendoubia Garden and Grand Square (Grand Socco)

When you finally emerge from the narrow streets of the medina, the vast Mendoubia Garden (Le Jardin de la Mendoubia) opens up before you. The garden invites you to lie down on the grass and enjoy sweet idleness. Another gate (Bab al Fahs) separates it from Grand Socco or Place 9 Avril 1947 square.

The square got its name thanks to the speech of King Mohammed V, who arrived in Tangier on April 9, 1947. At that time, the city had international status, and the king expressed the country’s desire for unity and independence in his speech. This event affected not only the city, but the whole of Morocco. The square connects the old and new city of Tangier. The square is dominated by the historic building of the Rif cinema (Cinémathèque de Tanger – Cinéma RIF), which is still in operation. Since for me the square was the real center of the city, I chose it as a starting point for the individual attractions, businesses and institutions listed below.

Rue Siaghine

The busy shopping street Rue Siaghine, an important axis of the medina, connects the large Grand Socco square with the small Petit Socco square.

Small Square (Petit Socco)

The small square (Petit Socco; 300 m/4 minutes walk northeast of Grand Socco), located in the heart of the medina, is lined with cafes. If you’re lucky like we were, you’ll see an acrobatic family performing their latest rehearsed stunts. I recommend a glass of hot mint tea and something sweet to go with it at sunset on the roof of a 4* hotel in the eastern part of the square.

La terrasse des paresseux/Place Faro

From the square Place Faro or the terrace La terrasse des paresseux you will have an interesting view of the port of the city. You can recognize the lookout by the 4 cannons that are ready to attack the enemy coming from the sea. I read that from the viewpoint you can see as far as Gibraltar in good weather, we were not so lucky though.

What else to do, see and visit in Tangier?

In the city of Tangier, you can also visit the Tangier American Legation Museum (350 m/4 minutes on foot east of Grand Socco). Morocco was one of the first countries to recognize the United States of America a year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence. The ticket costs 20 mad/2 euros/person for Moroccans and foreigners with permanent residence in Morocco and 50 mad/5 euros/person for foreigners without permanent residence. A guided tour costs 100 mad/10 euros. Almost the entire bay of Tangier is bordered by a wide public sandy beach with a promenade and children’s playgrounds, which is especially popular with locals. Entrance to the beach is free. All lovers of culture and art will definitely find a cultural center and several art galleries in the city.

What to do, see and visit around Tangier?

Around the city of Tangier, follow in the footsteps of Hercules in the Caves of Hercules, see the place where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea meet at Cape Spartel or „cool off“ in the Perdicaris Park.

Caves of Hercules

Hercules Caves are located 15 km/23 minutes by car southwest of Grand Socco. Legend has it that in these caves Hercules rested after completing the 10th difficult task, which was the separation of the European and African continents (known as the Pillars of Hercules). According to another legend, he separated the continents from each other only because he did not want to cross the Atlas Mountains. He then allegedly kicked the cave wall, in which you can still see a hole to this day. The shape of the hole in the wall resembles the shape of Africa. When you look from the inside, it will be obvious to you that Africa has a slightly different shape, you have to look at the opening from the sea.

There is another legend which believes a tunnel leads from the caves to Spain, which explains how the African macaques got to Gibraltar.

Useful information

Before the trip to the caves, they advised us to take some extra clothes, because it would be a little colder in the caves. No, you really don’t need to take any extra clothes in the summer months. At the end of July, I hardly noticed the difference between the temperature outside and inside. The caves are a little different from caves in Slovakia. They had placed lights under the tiled floor, which illuminated the cave effectively. Also, don’t expect any drops or karst formations.

In the cave, you can wear traditional Moroccan clothing and take a photo in it. There were several stalls with souvenirs. The whole visit reminded me of an amusement park. They call them caves because there are actually two of them. One is free to enter and the other costs 10 mad/1 euro/person. We visited the free one. For an additional fee, you can expect to see artificial statues, Greek murals and a waterfall.

Cape Spartel

Cape Spartel (14 km/23 minutes by car west of Grand Socco) is often cited as the most northwestern point of continental Africa. The symbol of the cape is the lighthouse, which is still functional today. It marks the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. The lighthouse is not accessible to the public from the inside. Since it is a nature reserve of the same name, you will see a spectacular natural theater in and out of the location. The Atlantic meets the Mediterranean here. At the point of collision, water eddies occur that drag the ships to the bottom. Apart from the lookout and the restaurant, this place doesn’t have much to offer, but you should definitely not miss it on your way to or from Hercules Caves.

Perdicaris Park

Perdicaris Park (or also Rmilat Park; 7 km/17 minutes by car west of Grand Socco) is a botanical garden where Mediterranean and Atlantic flora flourish. The park was named after Ion Perdicaris, a wealthy American of Greek origin. He had the park built for his wife, who had fallen ill with tuberculosis. They recommend visiting the park in the afternoon and early evening, when we also visited the park. Still, I’ll never forget how hot it was. The trees did not provide the much needed coolness. You can see the Atlantic from some places in the park.

Where to stay in Tangier?

We were supposed to arrive in Casablanca on Sunday, July 24, 2022 around lunchtime. From there, the organizers of the summer academy ensured a transfer to Tangier. Of course, I always have to be different and that’s why I flew straight to Tangier on Sunday morning. So I had the whole day to myself. I did not know then that it was also the last day when I had a free schedule. So by the time everyone else arrived, I had had time to settle in, wash my things and play loud music for the entire campus. One would get the feeling that I have been living in the dormitory of the institute for a few months.

The dormitory of the Higher International Institute of Tourism in Tangier

The dormitory of the Higher International Institute of Tourism in Tangier (Institut supérieur international du tourisme de Tanger in French, abbreviated ISITT; 3.8 km/47 minutes walk southeast of Grand Socco) became my 2nd home for one week. We had a choice of single or double rooms. I chose a single room, got a double room, but, luckily, without another roommate (if I don’t count the ants). The room with a sink had a view of the garden of the complex. There was a shower with a toilet on each floor. Only cold water ran in the shower on our floor, hot water was available on the floor above.

However, this shower was usually still occupied by someone. On the last day, I also managed to snatch it. But the shower pressure was so low that I regretted not taking a cold shower on my floor. The rooms did not have air conditioning. They had sliding windows. Since I also caught a fever in Morocco, I needed to sleep with the window closed for one or two nights. When I wanted to close the window on one side, it opened on the other and vice versa. There was such a hole under the door that I was in a constant draught during my entire stay. Otherwise, almost nothing bothered me there. 😛

Where to eat and where to go for coffee in Tangier?

In Tangier, we mostly ate at the institute. In addition, we tried several establishments – a modern restaurant, a traditional restaurant, fast food, several cafes and a bar. I will touch upon at least some of them.

Café Restaurant Vintage Tanger

I visited Café Restaurant Vintage Tanger (3.2 km/40 minutes walk east of Grand Socco) several times – the first day for a coffee break and dinner, and the penultimate day for tea. On the first days, I didn’t have an upset stomach yet, so I was able to enjoy a full dinner and a cake with coffee. In the restaurant, they prepare an incredibly good lava cake, which they serve with vanilla ice cream here. I ordered an espresso for dessert.

For dinner I tried the traditional Moroccan Tajine dish. These are ground beef balls in tomato sauce. I noticed that in the country they serve bread or pastry with almost every meal. Dinner was also fantastic. Well, on the penultimate day, when I prescribed a strict diet to myself, I only ordered Moroccan mint tea at Vintage, unsweetened in my case. I’m attaching a photo of how they serve it here, because I really liked it. You can pay by credit card in the restaurant.

Restaurant Bachir

Restaurant Bachir (750 m/10 minutes walk south of Grand Socco) is one of the best traditional Moroccan restaurants, recommended by locals (and travel guides). And wrong they were not . One evening we went out into town and got over the loss of dinner at the institute. As my stomach problems were at their peak at the time, I opted for the Vegetable Tajine with a whole teapot of mint tea. Vegetables were complemented by potatoes.

I regret that I could not appreciate the taste of the food. Abroad, they use spices completely differently than in Slovakia. Another thing I noticed in Morocco was that food and hot drinks are always brought to your table so hot that they are still bubbling in the plate and in the glass. I paid about 40 mad/4 euros for the bill. I paid in cash, so I can’t tell you for sure if the restaurant accepts credit cards.

Prestige Garden

After arriving in Morocco, we had breakfast at the Prestige Garden cafe (3 km/40 minutes walk southeast of Grand Socco). I ordered a traditional breakfast which included: wholemeal bread, baghrir (a pancake made from semolina or flour, if you bake it properly it is leaky), rghayef (traditional flat bread), harcha (semolina bread), butter, honey, jam and a molten cheese. Of course, there was mint tea, coffee and orange juice. I would easily get used to this kind of breakfast.

Canteen of the institute

The organizer provided food for us in the form of full board. Breakfast was mostly similar to what I mentioned in the paragraph above. We always had a choice of water, juice and hot drinks, which included sweetened or unsweetened Moroccan tea and coffee to drink. Breakfast was followed by lectures, which were separated by a small coffee break. During it, we refreshed ourselves with hot drinks and sweet pastries or cakes. Two-course lunches consisted of a cold starter, usually a salad, and a main course. Also, 2-course dinners included soup and a main course.

I do not remember all the dishes that we had the opportunity to taste, but among them were, for example Groat soup with milk, Beef sausages with tomato sauce, baked potatoes and Moroccan-style rice (with cinnamon and sugar). I tasted some fantastic food on the last day. It was a puff pastry pie filled with minced meat and pistachios. It’s just a shame that Moroccans are such lovers of sweet food that they also poured honey and sprinkled sugar on this salty cake.

In conclusion…

I spent a pleasant week in Tangier, not only in terms of accommodation and food, but also getting to know the attractions of the city and its surroundings.

Read more articles from Morocco:

• Morocco before the 1st visit
• The archaeological site of Lixus near the city of Larache
• Chefchaouen – 50 shades of blue
• Tétouan – Andalusia in Morocco

The article was created in cooperation with FIJET and FIJET Slovakia.

Please keep in mind that some of the information may be subject to change.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Tangier – gateway to Africa je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Alba Iulia?

Alba Iulia is located in the Alba county, a historical region of Transylvania in central Romania, 355 km / 4.5 hours northwest of Bucharest.

By car

The city of Alba Iulia is crossed by 3 national roads DN1, DN14B and DN74, while part of DN1 is part of the E81 European road.

• DN1 leads through Bucureşti – Ploiești – Brașov – Făgăraș – Sibiu – Alba Iulia – Turda – Cluj-Napoca – Oradea – Borș to Hungary. In the city, it identifies with the E81 European road, which connects Transcarpathian Ukraine with the Romanian Black Sea coast (Mukachevo – Halmeu – Satu Mare – Cluj-Napoca – Turda – Sibiu – Piteşti – Bucureşti – Constanţa),
• DN14B leads from Alba Iulia via Blaj to Copșa Mică,
• DN74 leads from Brad via Abrud – Zlatna to Alba Iulia.

By bus

There are 5 bus stations or stops around the fortress:

• Autogara Autotrans STP Alba – 260 m / 3 minutes walk north of the train station and 2 km / 22 minutes walk south of the fortress,
• Autogara Livio Dario SRL – 170 m / 2 minutes walk north of the train station and 2 km / 25 minutes walk southeast of the fortress (at Autogara Autotrans STP Alba),
• Benzinaria Petrom – Gara – 230 m / 3 minutes walk west of the train station and 1.7 km / 21 minutes walk south of the fortress,
• Statie Intersectie Magazin Spar – 1.5 km / 20 minutes walk northwest of the fortress and 3 km / 40 minutes walk northwest of the railway station,
• Statie Intersectia Autogarii – 2 km / 22 minutes walk northeast of the fortress and 2.5 km / 30 minutes walk north of the railway station.

The bus journey from Râmnicu Vâlcea (174 km) took 3 hours and 49 minutes and the ticket cost 39 lei / 8.06 eur / person. You can buy a ticket for this long-distance bus directly at the bus station and just show it to the driver when entering the bus.

By train

The railway station (Gara Alba Iulia) is located 1.8 km / 22 minutes walk south of the fortress. From the station we traveled back to Slovakia. Before the trip, we bought train seats. Behind the window was a nice English-speaking cashier. We did not get to Poprad (of course) directly from Alba Iulia. Fortunately, it was necessary to change train only 3 times – in Vințu de Jos, Budapest, Hungary and finally in Košice, Slovakia.

The journey took (incredible) 15 hours and 46 minutes. A return ticket from Poprad to Alba Iulia cost 73.50 eur / person. The ticket was valid for 1 month. Price did not include seats. To Vințu de Jos we took a regional train. A seat from Vințu de Jos to Budapest cost 3 eur / person. From Budapest to Košice a seat also cost 3 eur / person. A seat from Košice to Poprad cost 1 eur / person.

Before the trip, stock up on food very well. The station in Vințu de Jos was a bit strange. There was an overpass, which was not used at all. The waiting room was heated, but if you only have a hole instead of a window, it is probably not very effective. And you won’t find a vending machine for drinks or food at the whole station.

Where to get information in Alba Iulia?

The National Center for Tourism Information and Promotion (Centrul Național de Informare și Promovare Turistică; 500 m / 6 minutes walk west of the fortress center) is literally hiding among the western bastions. We managed to visit the center in 5 minutes 12 (in fact it was 4.55 p.m.). The employee of the center was already about to lock up when we „robbed“ her and asked for promotional materials about the city at the last minute. She „put“ maps and brochures in our hands and respectfully sent us away.

What to do, see and visit in Alba Iulia?

Alba Iulia has been the capital since ancient times. At that time, however, it was called Apulum and was the most important center of the Roman province of Dacia. The first fortress was a Roman military camp. In the years 1542-1690 it was the capital of Transylvania. The citadel of Alba Iulia is the largest fortress in Romania. Although the medieval fortress (2nd in a row) was built in the 13th century (on the foundations of a Roman military camp), its current appearance is slightly younger and dates back to the 18th century.

This, 3rd fortress, the Citadel of Alba Carolina (Cetatea Alba Carolina; in German Karlsburg, named after Emperor Charles VI, who initiated its construction), was built for more than 20 years (1715-1738). The fortress was designed by Italian architect Giovanni Morando Visconti using the Vauban military architectural system. Albu Iulia has been considered the symbolic capital of Romania for more than a century. Admission to the fortress is free.

The 1st, 2nd, 3rd gate of the fortress of Alba Iulia and the Obelisk of Horea, Cloșca and Crișan

You can enter the citadel through three entrances – from the east, from the west and north and through 7 gates. On the east and west sides of the fortress there are, on each three gates, on the north side one gate.

The 1st fortress gate (Poarta I-a a Cetății) at the eastern entrance has the form of a triumphal arch and is decorated with rich sculptural decoration inspired by Greek mythology. From the gate, a 130 m long paved sloping road leads to the 2nd fortress gate (Poarta a II-a a Cetății), which was partially destroyed in 1937 due to the construction of the obelisk and later rebuilt.

From the 2nd gate you can see the 3rd fortress gate (Poarta a III-a a Cetății), I dare say the most beautiful. It has the shape of a double triumphal arch. It is dominated by the equestrian statue of the Habsburg Emperor Charles VI. In the area between the gates, the 22.5 m high stone obelisk (Obeliscul lui Horea, Cloșca şi Crișan) will certainly not escape your view. The obelisk was erected on 14 October 1937 (on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the peasant uprising) to commemorate the three martyrs (Horea, Cloșca and Crișan), leaders of the peasant uprising, which took place in the years 1784-1785. At night, all sights are impressively lit.

History

The reason for the uprising was the poor level of feudal servitude in Transylvania. Orthodox Romanians were also not politically equal to Catholics, represented mainly by the Saxon, Hungarian and Székelys nobility. Leaders Horea and Cloșca were tortured by breaking in the wheel. Crișan hung himself in his cell to avoid torture. It is assumed that Horea’s death cell was in the 3rd gate under the statue of the king. The uprising ended with the servitude abolition in Transylvania in 1785.

Bronze model of the medieval citadel and the Michael the Brave church

From the obelisk to 3rd gate you walk around a bronze model of medieval citadel marked with attractiveness. Looking south you can see the wooden Michael the Brave church (Biserica Mihai Viteazul), built in 1988 in the „Maramureș“ style. The church stands on the site of the former metropolitan cathedral, which was built here by Michael the Brave in 1597 and which was destroyed by the Habsburgs in 1714.

Via Principalis and the path of the Three Fortresses

When you pass the 3rd gate, you get on the so-called The Via Principalis, which led through the entire Roman military camp from north to south. On your left hand you will see The path of the three fortresses (Traseul Celor Trei Fortificații), which is open to visitors during the summer tourist season. Three fortresses because the first fortress was a Roman military camp, the second a medieval fortress and the third the Citadel of Alba Carolina from the 18th century. Every fortress they built here included the previous one.

Principia Museum

In the center of the citadel is the Fortress Square (Piața Cetății). In the northern part of the square is the University December 1, 1918 (Universitatea 1 Decembrie 1918) and the Principia Museum (Muzeul Principia). Archaeologists have found the most important part of the Roman military camp in these places – the seat of the 13th Legion of Gemina, the only legion that remained in the province of Dacia during the entire period of Roman rule. In the museum you can admire, among other things, the old walls and the ingenious in situ heating system.

The Union Hall

The western side of the square is bordered by one of the most important buildings not only of the city, but of the whole Romania – The Union Hall (Sala Unirii). It was in this hall on December 1, 1918 that the representatives of Transylvania and Romania signed the Treaty of Unification. Why did they meet in this room? The answer is simple. Because it was the largest room in the whole city, which could accommodate up to 1,228 Romanian delegates. Admission to The Union Hall is free. You will receive a zero ticket at the entrance.

The equestrian statue of Michael the Brave

South of the hall is the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave (Statuia Ecvestră a lui Mihai Viteazul), a Wallachian prince who united Wallachia with Transylvania and Moldova in the 16th century. Alba Iulia is one of the few places that Michael the Brave personally visited. It happened on November 1, 1599 and he stayed in the city for 10 months. However, after his execution in 1601, this union disintegrated. The statue was ceremoniously unveiled on November 28, 1968, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of unification.

The Custozza and Lossenau Monuments

In the middle of the square, two monuments rise in height – Custozza and Lossenau. The Custozza Monument (Monumentul Custozza), in the shape of an obelisk, was erected in 1906 to commemorate the soldiers and officers of the 50th Infantry Regiment who fought alongside the Habsburg army against the Italians at the Battle of Custozza in 1866.

The Lossenau Monument (Monumentul Lossenau) was erected in memory of Austrian Colonel Ludwig Losy von Losenau, the leader of the Habsburg troops, who fell in the battle of Simeria in 1849 during the revolution in Transylvania. The neo-Gothic monument was built in the 1950s. Although there is no one in the square, it is „enlivened“ by statues of figures typical of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.

National Museum of Unification

To the west of The Union Hall stands the National Museum of Unification (Muzeul Național al Unirii). The museum is comparable to other county museums in Romania. On three floors, it offers a walk through history from prehistory to the 19th century, which covers an entire floor of the museum. The tour ends with an exhibition of sculptures in the lapidary. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

St. Michael’s Cathedral and the Coronation Cathedral

If we continue further west, we will suddenly find ourselves in the shadow of two monumental churches. To the left is the St. Michael’s Cathedral and on the right the Coronation Cathedral.

Roman Catholic St. Michael Cathedral (Catedrala Romano-Catolică Sfântul Mihail) was built in the 13th century. It thus became the oldest cathedral in Transylvania. The cathedral is a kind of royal tomb. John Hunyadi (Iancu de Hunedoara), the Duke of Transylvania and the Governor of Hungary, Isabela Jagiellon, Queen of Hungary and finally her son John II Sigismund Zápolya, the first prince of Transylvania, all found eternal rest in it.

Coronation Cathedral, Unification Cathedral or also the Orthodox Church of St. Michael (Catedrala Încoronării) was founded only in the first quarter of the 20th century in the years 1921-1922. The first religious building to be built in Transylvania after the great unification. For Romanians, it is a real monument of national unity. Coronation because on October 15, 1922, they crowned King Ferdinand I and Queen Mary. Opposite the main entrance to the cathedral rises a 52 m high bell tower.

The 4th, 5th and 6th gate of the fortress of Alba Iulia

The 4th fortress gate (Poarta a IV-a a Cetății) is located on the west side of the citadel and is decorated with several Baroque sculptural elements. We also know it as the „New Gate“ or „Bishop’s Gate“. It is the only ornate gate on the west side of the citadel. The 5th fortress gate (Poarta a V-a a Cetății) has a simple architecture without decorative elements and the shape of an arched corridor. Gates were once connected by a drawbridge over the moat. The 6th fortress gate (Poarta a VI-a a Cetății) freely connects to the 5th gate. It is a simple gate with two massive pillars, on which are placed two stone cannonballs at the moment of firing.

Museikon

Museikon (240 m / 3 minutes walk northwest of Fortress square) focuses mainly on sacred art. It contains a valuable collection of Transylvanian icons, historical prints and other religious objects. It is exhibiting medical items in the basement, as the building housed the first military hospital in Romania in the 18th century.

The 7th fortress gate

The last, northern, 7th fortress gate (Poarta a VII-a a Cetății) was discovered by chance during reconstruction works. It is believed that it did not serve its purpose and was bricked up before the completion of the fortress. Again, it has the simple form of an arched corridor without statues.

Where to stay in Alba Iulia?

Villa Matia Resort is located (850 m / 10 minutes walk east of the fortress; 1.2 km / 16 minutes walk north of the railway station and bus station Autogara Autotrans STP Alba) directly at the eastern side of the fortress. The property does not have a 24-hour reception. There was a telephone number on the front door that we called, and a very nice English-speaking receptionist arrived in about half an hour.

The lady accommodated us in a double room overlooking the road in front of the facility with a private bathroom with shower. But if we had a room on the opposite side of the facility, we would have a direct view of the fortress. Very nice, elegantly furnished and spacious room, which consisted of an entrance hall, the room itself and a private bathroom. There was an electric kettle in the room. It is not necessary to reserve a space in the free private car park, which is available on site. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the property.

For one double room for 2 people for one night we paid 124 lei / 25.63 eur. The price included a room and 5% value added tax. The price did not include breakfast (5 eur / person / night), which is served only during the summer season. We paid at the property with a credit card in local currency.

Villa Matia Resort is the 2nd best accommodation during our last visit to Romania and one of the best in all of Transylvania.

Where to eat in Alba Iulia?

The food in Alba Iulia was great.

Hotel Vila Preciosa

Hotel Vila Preciosa (1 km / 11 minutes walk east of the fortress) is a modern hotel in the wider city center. The hotel has a clean and elegant restaurant where we stopped for lunch. I tasted Caramelized chicken breasts with cherry sauce and curry rice. After the main course, we ordered the Papanași dessert, which they prepare here a little differently than in other parts of the country. It looked more like Slovak potato gnocchi with breadcrumbs than fried doughnuts with jam. Still, dessert was excellent. We were served by a very nice, English-speaking waitress. We paid 117 lei / 24.18 eur for lunch for 2 people. One of the best restaurants during our last visit to Romania.

PUB 13 – Restaurantul Cetății

The medieval restaurant PUB 13 – Restaurantul Cetății (550 m / 6 minutes walk east of the fortress center) is located directly in the citadel wall. The medieval atmosphere is enhanced by stone vaults, massive wooden furniture, weapons, flags and coats of arms on the walls. English speaking staff. I tasted chicken breasts with onions and mamaliga, which are served on a hot decorated earthenware dish. The food was really great. We paid 150.50 lei / 31.11 eur for dinner for 2 people.

I finally managed to visit the city of Alba Iulia after a few years. I have corrected old rests from the past and I have no choice but to recommend a visit. The attractive and interesting city abounds in a rich offer of cultural monuments, accommodates you in a cozy hotel and satiates with selected dishes in attractive restaurants. In addition, the bonus is nice people who welcomes every visitor.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid as of 15 April 2020 (EUR 1 = 4.8378 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Alba Iulia – Romanian freedom flower je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

In Romania, it is probably also allowed to park on the sidewalks (similar to Slovakia). However, here in Slovakia we should park the car so that there is a distance of 1.5 m, respectively 2 people will walk side by side on the sidewalk. This is probably not the case in Romania, because everyone parks there as they come. And since you are in a big city where there are a lot of people who have a lot of cars and space is scarce, you can park wherever you can.

How to get to Craiova?

Craiova is located in Dolj County, in western Wallachia, in Oltenia, in southwestern Romania, 233 km / 3 hours and 3 minutes by car west of Bucharest.

By car

Craiova has very good transport accessibility. A Class european roads (E70, E79), B Class european road (E574) and several national roads (DN55, DN6B and DN65C) pass through the city:

• A Class european roads:
  • E70 – leads from Georgia to Spain. In Romania, it passes through Bucharest – Craiova – Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Timișoara – Cenad. In the city, it identifies with the national road DN6.
  • E79 – leads from Hungary to Greece. In Romania, it passes through Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. It passes through the city as a national road DN56.
• B Class european road:
  • E574 – which starts in Bacău, passes through Brașov, Pitești and ends in Craiova. In the city it is the national road DN65.
• National roads:
  • DN55 – Craiova – Bechet.
  • DN6B – Craiova – Melinești – Hurezani.
  • DN65C – Craiova – Bălcești – Horezu.

By bus

If you are traveling to the city by bus, you can get off at one of the following stops:

• Autogara Craiova Nord (Pelendava SA) – 2.5 km / 30 minutes walk northeast of the center (at the train station)
• Autogara A. C. O. T. P. Dolj (Bacriz) – 2.5 km / 35 minutes walk northeast of the center (near the train station)
• Metro – 7 km / 14 minutes by car east of the center (at the airport)

By train

The railway station (Gara Craiova) is 2.3 km / 31 minutes walk northeast of the center. The journey from Drobeta-Turnu Severin took 2 hours 9 minutes and the ticket cost 34.70 lei / 7.18 eur / person.

By plane

Craiova International Airport (Aeroportul Internațional Craiova) is located 7 km / 11 minutes by car east of the center. From the airport, you can currently (April 2020) fly to 11 destinations in 8 countries in Europe and the Middle East.

What to do, see and visit in Craiova?

There are three museums in the city, each exhibiting different collections, an art museum and several historic buildings that currently serve as offices or a university.

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Istorie și Arheologie; 500 m / 6 minutes walk west of the center) exhibits, as the name suggests, historical, archaeological and numismatic collections from prehistory to the present. The museum is a kind of small maze, but don’t worry. Although you see the exhibition yourself, you will always have a museum lecturer on your heels, who is ready to answer any questions, will guide you, turns on and turns off the lights. Interestingly conceived exhibition. The ticket price also included a short-term exhibition dedicated to socialist toys. Set aside about 1.5-2 hours for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Științele Naturii; 180 m / 2 minutes walk west of the center) hides in its premises paleontological, mineralogical, botanical, malacological (mollusc science), entomological (insect science), ichthyological (fish science), herpetological (reptile and amphibian science), ornithological (bird science) and teriological (mammal science) collections. On the second floor there is a planetarium and an exhibition dedicated to space and the solar system. We went through the exhibition ourselves. Set aside about one hour for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography (Casa Băniei – Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Etnografie; 550 m / 6 minutes walk southwest of the center) is located in the so-called Băniei House a few meters south of the historical museum. The house is the oldest secular building in the city. It was established at the end of the 15th century. In the museum we can find handicrafts and objects of folk art made of clay, wood, metal and other materials. The basement is occupied by an exhibition focused on the production of bread. Upstairs, the museum exhibits rugs, woven products and religious objects, including icons. The museum was again a maze in which we were guided by a lecturer. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Museum of Art

In Craiova you can also visit the Art Museum Craiova (Muzeul de Artă din Craiova; 260 m / 3 minutes walk north of the center; 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person), which exhibits, among other things, six works by Constantine Brâncuși, about who I have already wrote in the article Târgu Jiu – the city jungle of Oltenia. By the way, Constantine studied at a local art school.

Significant buildings and sculptures of Craiova

There are several squares in the city center and its wider surroundings. In the article, I focused on Michael the Brave’s Square (Piața Mihai Viteazul), from which I also calculated distances.

The eastern side of the square is bordered by the building of Dolj County Prefecture (Instituția Prefectului Județului Dolj), which is a symbol of the city of Craiova.

Right on the square is the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave (Statuia lui Mihai Viteazul). Michael the Brave (1558-1601) was the first Romanian prince who united three principalities – Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldova into one unit. He is a national hero for Romanians. He won 4th place in the 100 greatest Romanians TV show.

Just a few meters west from statue of Michael the Brave is a statue of another Romanian prince named Barbu Dimitrie Ştirbei. Barbu was a prince twice, first in the years 1848-1853 and later in the years 1854-1856.

In the western part of the square there is Romanian Opera House (Opera Română Craiova). In front of it is a roundabout, in the middle of which is a third statue, a statue of Charles I (Statuia lui Carol I). Charles I was King of Romania from 1866-1914. He won a silver medal in the TV show of 100 greatest Romanians.

On the way from the center to the station you will walk around the university (Universitatea din Craiova; 500 m / 6 minutes walk east of the center) from the end of the 19th century, which originally served as a courthouse.

Where to stay in Craiova?

In the city we stayed in a cozy Romanian Pensiunea Luisa guest house (1 km / 13 minutes walk southeast of the center and 2.6 km / 35 minutes walk southwest of the train and bus station), located on the outskirts of the center.

The receptionist spoke only Romanian, but she was very willing to explain everything to us. She accommodated us in a double Business Room with a small window overlooking the wall of the opposite building with a private bathroom with shower. As I looked for the plug, I noticed a clump of dust under the bed. Therefore, I preferred not to look at the mattress. A buffet breakfast is served in the restaurant, which is adjacent to the guest house and is interconnected. Free (but very weak) Wi-Fi internet connection was in the whole object. It is not necessary to book a free private parking space, which is available on site.

I’m sorry I didn’t take a photo of stairs and the corridor at the guest house. If you’ve ever read Dracula by Bram Stoker, this is exactly how I imagined the hotel in Bistrița, where Jonathan Harker stayed on his way to Dracula’s castle.

For one double room for two people for one night we paid 120 lei / 24.82 eur. The price included room, 5% value added tax, 1% city tax and breakfast. In the guest house we paid by credit card in local currency.

Where to eat in Craiova?

We ate in the city in two Italian restaurants – Restaurant Il Forno and Pizzeria Trevi, and between museum tours we had a coffee break in a patisserie. A visit of the confectionery was nothing special and therefore I will not write about it.

Restaurant Il Forno

Restaurant Il Forno (750 m / 10 minutes walk east of the center) is a pleasant looking modern restaurant in the city center. I tasted Chicken rolls with spinach and feta cheese and roasted potatoes (chicken breast, spinach, feta cheese, cream, garlic, pepper), which were delicious. English speaking staff. After lunch, I recommend you a delicious Italian espresso. We paid 86 lei / 17.79 eur for lunch for 2 people.

Pizzeria Trevi

Pizzeria Trevi (1 km / 13 minutes walk east of the center) is a truly Italian restaurant. A cozy restaurant that uses every square meter of its area. There were tables with checkered tablecloths, serving tables, Italian-speaking staff and, of course, an Italian menu. I tasted Partenopea pasta. It is a pasta with onion-based tomato sauce with tuna and olives. The taste is enhanced by capers and the portion is covered with grated Parmesan cheese. The pasta was very tasty and rich. We paid 100 lei / 20.69 eur for dinner for 2 people.

After visiting the city of Craiova, I am probably most sorry that we did not have time to visit the Art museum. I would also like to walk through the large park, which is situated south of the center. Instead, the cold February weather „drove us“ to heated museums and restaurants.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid on 1 April 2020 (1 eur = 4.8340 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Craiova – the capital of Oltenia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.