How to get to Alba Iulia?

Alba Iulia is located in the Alba county, a historical region of Transylvania in central Romania, 355 km / 4.5 hours northwest of Bucharest.

By car

The city of Alba Iulia is crossed by 3 national roads DN1, DN14B and DN74, while part of DN1 is part of the E81 European road.

• DN1 leads through Bucureşti – Ploiești – Brașov – Făgăraș – Sibiu – Alba Iulia – Turda – Cluj-Napoca – Oradea – Borș to Hungary. In the city, it identifies with the E81 European road, which connects Transcarpathian Ukraine with the Romanian Black Sea coast (Mukachevo – Halmeu – Satu Mare – Cluj-Napoca – Turda – Sibiu – Piteşti – Bucureşti – Constanţa),
• DN14B leads from Alba Iulia via Blaj to Copșa Mică,
• DN74 leads from Brad via Abrud – Zlatna to Alba Iulia.

By bus

There are 5 bus stations or stops around the fortress:

• Autogara Autotrans STP Alba – 260 m / 3 minutes walk north of the train station and 2 km / 22 minutes walk south of the fortress,
• Autogara Livio Dario SRL – 170 m / 2 minutes walk north of the train station and 2 km / 25 minutes walk southeast of the fortress (at Autogara Autotrans STP Alba),
• Benzinaria Petrom – Gara – 230 m / 3 minutes walk west of the train station and 1.7 km / 21 minutes walk south of the fortress,
• Statie Intersectie Magazin Spar – 1.5 km / 20 minutes walk northwest of the fortress and 3 km / 40 minutes walk northwest of the railway station,
• Statie Intersectia Autogarii – 2 km / 22 minutes walk northeast of the fortress and 2.5 km / 30 minutes walk north of the railway station.

The bus journey from Râmnicu Vâlcea (174 km) took 3 hours and 49 minutes and the ticket cost 39 lei / 8.06 eur / person. You can buy a ticket for this long-distance bus directly at the bus station and just show it to the driver when entering the bus.

By train

The railway station (Gara Alba Iulia) is located 1.8 km / 22 minutes walk south of the fortress. From the station we traveled back to Slovakia. Before the trip, we bought train seats. Behind the window was a nice English-speaking cashier. We did not get to Poprad (of course) directly from Alba Iulia. Fortunately, it was necessary to change train only 3 times – in Vințu de Jos, Budapest, Hungary and finally in Košice, Slovakia.

The journey took (incredible) 15 hours and 46 minutes. A return ticket from Poprad to Alba Iulia cost 73.50 eur / person. The ticket was valid for 1 month. Price did not include seats. To Vințu de Jos we took a regional train. A seat from Vințu de Jos to Budapest cost 3 eur / person. From Budapest to Košice a seat also cost 3 eur / person. A seat from Košice to Poprad cost 1 eur / person.

Before the trip, stock up on food very well. The station in Vințu de Jos was a bit strange. There was an overpass, which was not used at all. The waiting room was heated, but if you only have a hole instead of a window, it is probably not very effective. And you won’t find a vending machine for drinks or food at the whole station.

Where to get information in Alba Iulia?

The National Center for Tourism Information and Promotion (Centrul Național de Informare și Promovare Turistică; 500 m / 6 minutes walk west of the fortress center) is literally hiding among the western bastions. We managed to visit the center in 5 minutes 12 (in fact it was 4.55 p.m.). The employee of the center was already about to lock up when we „robbed“ her and asked for promotional materials about the city at the last minute. She „put“ maps and brochures in our hands and respectfully sent us away.

What to do, see and visit in Alba Iulia?

Alba Iulia has been the capital since ancient times. At that time, however, it was called Apulum and was the most important center of the Roman province of Dacia. The first fortress was a Roman military camp. In the years 1542-1690 it was the capital of Transylvania. The citadel of Alba Iulia is the largest fortress in Romania. Although the medieval fortress (2nd in a row) was built in the 13th century (on the foundations of a Roman military camp), its current appearance is slightly younger and dates back to the 18th century.

This, 3rd fortress, the Citadel of Alba Carolina (Cetatea Alba Carolina; in German Karlsburg, named after Emperor Charles VI, who initiated its construction), was built for more than 20 years (1715-1738). The fortress was designed by Italian architect Giovanni Morando Visconti using the Vauban military architectural system. Albu Iulia has been considered the symbolic capital of Romania for more than a century. Admission to the fortress is free.

The 1st, 2nd, 3rd gate of the fortress of Alba Iulia and the Obelisk of Horea, Cloșca and Crișan

You can enter the citadel through three entrances – from the east, from the west and north and through 7 gates. On the east and west sides of the fortress there are, on each three gates, on the north side one gate.

The 1st fortress gate (Poarta I-a a Cetății) at the eastern entrance has the form of a triumphal arch and is decorated with rich sculptural decoration inspired by Greek mythology. From the gate, a 130 m long paved sloping road leads to the 2nd fortress gate (Poarta a II-a a Cetății), which was partially destroyed in 1937 due to the construction of the obelisk and later rebuilt.

From the 2nd gate you can see the 3rd fortress gate (Poarta a III-a a Cetății), I dare say the most beautiful. It has the shape of a double triumphal arch. It is dominated by the equestrian statue of the Habsburg Emperor Charles VI. In the area between the gates, the 22.5 m high stone obelisk (Obeliscul lui Horea, Cloșca şi Crișan) will certainly not escape your view. The obelisk was erected on 14 October 1937 (on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the peasant uprising) to commemorate the three martyrs (Horea, Cloșca and Crișan), leaders of the peasant uprising which took place in the years 1784-1785. At night, all sights are impressively lit.

History

The reason for the uprising was the poor level of feudal servitude in Transylvania. Orthodox Romanians were also not politically equal to Catholics, represented mainly by the Saxon, Hungarian and Székelys nobility. Leaders Horea and Cloșca were tortured by breaking in the wheel. Crișan hung himself in his cell to avoid torture. It is assumed that Horea’s death cell was in the 3rd gate under the statue of the king. The uprising ended with the servitude abolition in Transylvania in 1785.

Bronze model of the medieval citadel and the Michael the Brave church

From the obelisk to 3rd gate you walk around a bronze model of medieval citadel marked with attractiveness. Looking south you can see the wooden Michael the Brave church (Biserica Mihai Viteazul), built in 1988 in the „Maramureș“ style. The church stands on the site of the former metropolitan cathedral, which was built here by Michael the Brave in 1597 and which was destroyed by the Habsburg in 1714.

Via Principalis and the path of the Three Fortresses

When you pass the 3rd gate, you get on the so-called The Via Principalis, which led through the entire Roman military camp from north to south. On your left hand you will see The path of the three fortresses (Traseul Celor Trei Fortificații), which is open to visitors during the summer tourist season. Three fortresses because the first fortress was a Roman military camp, the second a medieval fortress and the third the Citadel of Alba Carolina from the 18th century. Every fortress they built here included the previous one.

Principia Museum

In the center of the citadel is the Fortress Square (Piața Cetății). In the northern part of the square is the University December 1, 1918 (Universitatea 1 Decembrie 1918) and the Principia Museum (Muzeul Principia). Archaeologists have found the most important part of the Roman military camp in these places – the seat of the 13th Legion of Gemina, the only legion that remained in the province of Dacia during the entire period of Roman rule. In the museum you can admire, among other things, the old walls and the ingenious in situ heating system.

The Union Hall

The western side of the square is bordered by one of the most important buildings not only of the city, but of the whole Romania – The Union Hall (Sala Unirii). It was in this hall on December 1, 1918 that the representatives of Transylvania and Romania signed the Treaty of Unification. Why did they meet in this room? The answer is simple. Because it was the largest room in the whole city, which could accommodate up to 1,228 Romanian delegates. Admission to The Union Hall is free. You will receive a zero ticket at the entrance.

The equestrian statue of Michael the Brave

South of the hall is the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave (Statuia Ecvestră a lui Mihai Viteazul), a Wallachian prince who united Wallachia with Transylvania and Moldova in the 16th century. Alba Iulia is one of the few places that Michael the Brave personally visited. It happened on November 1, 1599 and he stayed in the city for 10 months. However, after his execution in 1601, this union disintegrated. The statue was ceremoniously unveiled on November 28, 1968, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of unification.

The Custozza and Lossenau Monuments

In the middle of the square, two monuments rise in height – Custozza and Lossenau. The Custozza Monument (Monumentul Custozza), in the shape of an obelisk, was erected in 1906 to commemorate the soldiers and officers of the 50th Infantry Regiment who fought alongside the Habsburg army against the Italians at the Battle of Custozza in 1866.

The Lossenau Monument (Monumentul Lossenau) was erected in memory of Austrian Colonel Ludwig Losy von Losenau, the leader of the Habsburg troops, who fell in the battle of Simeria in 1849 during the revolution in Transylvania. The neo-Gothic monument was built in the 1950s. Although there is no one in the square, it is „enlivened“ by statues of figures typical of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.

National Museum of Unification

To the west of The Union Hall stands the National Museum of Unification (Muzeul Național al Unirii). The museum is comparable to other county museums in Romania. On three floors, it offers a walk through history from prehistory to the 19th century, which covers an entire floor of the museum. The tour ends with an exhibition of sculptures in the lapidary. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

St. Michael’s Cathedral and the Coronation Cathedral

If we continue further west, we will suddenly find ourselves in the shadow of two monumental churches. To the left is the St. Michael’s Cathedral and on the right the Coronation Cathedral.

Roman Catholic St. Michael Cathedral (Catedrala Romano-Catolică Sfântul Mihail) was built in the 13th century. It thus became the oldest cathedral in Transylvania. The cathedral is a kind of royal tomb. John Hunyadi (Iancu de Hunedoara), the Duke of Transylvania and the Governor of Hungary, Isabela Jagiellon, Queen of Hungary and finally her son John II Sigismund Zápolya, the first prince of Transylvania, all found eternal rest in it.

Coronation Cathedral, Unification Cathedral or also the Orthodox Church of St. Michael (Catedrala Încoronării) was founded only in the first quarter of the 20th century in the years 1921-1922. The first religious building to be built in Transylvania after the great unification. For Romanians, it is a real monument of national unity. Coronation because on October 15, 1922, they crowned King Ferdinand I and Queen Mary here. Opposite the main entrance to the cathedral rises a 52 m high bell tower.

The 4th, 5th and 6th gate of the fortress of Alba Iulia

The 4th fortress gate (Poarta a IV-a a Cetății) is located on the west side of the citadel and is decorated with several Baroque sculptural elements. We also know it as the „New Gate“ or „Bishop’s Gate“. It is the only ornate gate on the west side of the citadel. The 5th fortress gate (Poarta a V-a a Cetății) has a simple architecture without decorative elements and the shape of an arched corridor. Gates were once connected by a drawbridge over the moat. The 6th fortress gate (Poarta a VI-a a Cetății) freely connects to the 5th gate. It is a simple gate with two massive pillars, on which are placed two stone cannonballs at the moment of firing.

Museikon

Museikon (240 m / 3 minutes walk northwest of Fortress square) focuses mainly on sacred art. It contains a valuable collection of Transylvanian icons, historical prints and other religious objects. It is exhibiting medical items in the basement, as the building housed the first military hospital in Romania in the 18th century.

The 7th fortress gate

The last, northern, 7th fortress gate (Poarta a VII-a a Cetății) was discovered by chance during reconstruction works. It is believed that it did not serve its purpose and was bricked up before the completion of the fortress. Again, it has the simple form of an arched corridor without statues.

Where to stay in Alba Iulia?

Villa Matia Resort is located (850 m / 10 minutes walk east of the fortress; 1.2 km / 16 minutes walk north of the railway station and bus station Autogara Autotrans STP Alba) directly at the eastern side of the fortress. The property does not have a 24-hour reception. There was a telephone number on the front door that we called, and a very nice English-speaking receptionist arrived in about half an hour.

The lady accommodated us in a double room overlooking the road in front of the facility with a private bathroom with shower. But if we had had a room on the opposite side of the facility, we would have had a direct view of the fortress. Very nice, elegantly furnished and spacious room, which consisted of an entrance hall, the room itself and a private bathroom. There was an electric kettle in the room. It is not necessary to reserve a space in the free private car park, which is available on site. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the property.

For one double room for 2 people for one night we paid 124 lei / 25.63 eur. The price included a room and 5% value added tax. The price did not include breakfast (5 eur / person / night), which is served only during the summer season. We paid at the property with a credit card in local currency.

Villa Matia Resort is the 2nd best accommodation during our last visit to Romania and one of the best in all of Transylvania the way we saw it.

Where to eat in Alba Iulia?

The food in Alba Iulia was great.

Hotel Vila Preciosa

Hotel Vila Preciosa (1 km / 11 minutes walk east of the fortress) is a modern hotel in the wider city center. The hotel has a clean and elegant restaurant where we stopped for lunch. I tasted Caramelized chicken breast with cherry sauce and curry rice. After the main course, we ordered the Papanași dessert covered in breadcrumbs and sugar served with sour cream and blueberry jam. Dessert was excellent. We were served by a very nice, English-speaking waitress. We paid 117 lei / 24.18 eur for lunch for 2 people. One of the best restaurants during our last visit to Romania.

PUB 13 – Restaurantul Cetății

The medieval restaurant PUB 13 – Restaurantul Cetății (550 m / 6 minutes walk east of the fortress center) is located directly in the citadel wall. The medieval atmosphere is enhanced by stone vaults, solid wooden furniture, weapons, flags and coats of arms on the walls. English speaking staff. I tasted chicken breast with onion and Mămăligă, which were served on a hot decorated earthenware dish. The food was really great. We paid 150.50 lei / 31.11 eur for dinner for 2 people.

I finally managed to visit the city of Alba Iulia after a few years. I have tied the loose ends and I can not but recommend a visit. The attractive and interesting city abounds in a rich offer of cultural monuments, accommodates you in a cozy hotel and satiates with selected dishes in attractive restaurants. In addition, the bonus is nice people who welcome every visitor.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid as of 15 April 2020 (EUR 1 = 4.8378 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Alba Iulia – Romanian freedom flower je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

In Romania, it is probably also allowed to park on the sidewalks (similar to Slovakia). However, here in Slovakia we should park the car so that there is a distance of 1.5 m, or 2 people can walk side by side on the sidewalk respectively. This is probably not the case in Romania, because everyone parks there as they come. And since you are in a big city where there are a lot of people who have a lot of cars and space is scarce, you can park wherever you can.

How to get to Craiova?

Craiova is located in Dolj County, in western Wallachia, in Oltenia, in southwestern Romania, 233 km / 3 hours and 3 minutes by car west of Bucharest.

By car

Craiova has very good transport accessibility. A Class european roads (E70, E79), B Class european road (E574) and several national roads (DN55, DN6B and DN65C) pass through the city:

• A Class european roads:
  • E70 – leads from Georgia to Spain. In Romania, it passes through Bucharest – Craiova – Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Timișoara – Cenad. In the city, it coincides with the national road DN6.
  • E79 – leads from Hungary to Greece. In Romania, it passes through Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. It passes through the city as a national road DN56.
• B Class european road:
  • E574 – which starts in Bacău, passes through Brașov, Pitești and ends in Craiova. In the city it is the national road DN65.
• National roads:
  • DN55 – Craiova – Bechet.
  • DN6B – Craiova – Melinești – Hurezani.
  • DN65C – Craiova – Bălcești – Horezu.

By bus

If you are traveling to the city by bus, you can get off at one of the following stops:

• Autogara Craiova Nord (Pelendava SA) – 2.5 km / 30 minutes walk northeast of the center (at the train station)
• Autogara A. C. O. T. P. Dolj (Bacriz) – 2.5 km / 35 minutes walk northeast of the center (near the train station)
• Metro – 7 km / 14 minutes by car east of the center (at the airport)

By train

The railway station (Gara Craiova) is 2.3 km / 31 minutes walk northeast of the center. The journey from Drobeta-Turnu Severin took 2 hours 9 minutes and the ticket cost 34.70 lei / 7.18 eur / person.

By plane

Craiova International Airport (Aeroportul Internațional Craiova) is located 7 km / 11 minutes by car east of the center. From the airport, you can currently (April 2020) fly to 11 destinations in 8 countries in Europe and the Middle East.

What to do, see and visit in Craiova?

There are three museums in the city, each exhibiting different collections, an art museum and several historic buildings that currently serve as offices or a university.

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology

Oltenia Museum – Section of History and Archaeology (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Istorie și Arheologie; 500 m / 6 minutes walk west of the center) exhibits, as the name suggests, historical, archaeological and numismatic collections from prehistory to the present. The museum is a kind of small maze, but don’t worry. Although you see the exhibition yourself, you will always have a museum lecturer on your heels, who is ready to answer any questions, will guide you, turns on and turns off the lights. Interestingly conceived exhibition. The ticket price also included a short-term exhibition dedicated to socialist toys. Set aside about 1.5-2 hours for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences

Oltenia Museum – Section of Natural Sciences (Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Științele Naturii; 180 m / 2 minutes walk west of the center) hides in its premises paleontological, mineralogical, botanical, malacological (mollusc science), entomological (insect science), ichthyological (fish science), herpetological (reptile and amphibian science), ornithological (bird science) and teriological (mammal science) collections. On the second floor there is a planetarium and an exhibition dedicated to space and the solar system. We went through the exhibition ourselves. Set aside about one hour for the museum tour. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography

Oltenia Museum – Section of Ethnography (Casa Băniei – Muzeul Olteniei – secția de Etnografie; 550 m / 6 minutes walk southwest of the center) is located in the so-called Băniei House a few meters south of the historical museum. The house is the oldest secular building in the city. It was established at the end of the 15th century. In the museum we can find handicrafts and objects of folk art made of clay, wood, metal and other materials. The basement is occupied by an exhibition focused on the production of bread. Upstairs, the museum exhibits rugs, woven products and religious objects, including icons. The museum was again a maze in which we were guided by a lecturer. The ticket cost 5 lei / 1.03 eur / person.

Museum of Art

In Craiova you can also visit the Art Museum Craiova (Muzeul de Artă din Craiova; 260 m / 3 minutes walk north of the center; 10 lei / 2.07 eur / person), which exhibits, among other things, six works by Constantine Brâncuși, I have already written about in the article Târgu Jiu – the city jungle of Oltenia. By the way, Constantine studied at a local art school.

Significant buildings and sculptures of Craiova

There are several squares in the city center and its wider surroundings. In the article, I focused on Michael the Brave’s Square (Piața Mihai Viteazul), I also calculated distances from.

The eastern side of the square is bordered by the building of Dolj County Prefecture (Instituția Prefectului Județului Dolj), which is a symbol of the city of Craiova.

Right on the square is the equestrian statue of Michael the Brave (Statuia lui Mihai Viteazul). Michael the Brave (1558-1601) was the first Romanian prince who united three principalities – Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldova into one unit. He is a national hero for Romanians. He won 4th place in the 100 greatest Romanians TV show.

Just a few meters west from statue of Michael the Brave is a statue of another Romanian prince named Barbu Dimitrie Ştirbei. Barbu was a prince twice, first in the years 1848-1853 and later in the years 1854-1856.

In the western part of the square there is Romanian Opera House (Opera Română Craiova). In front of it is a roundabout, in the middle of which is a third statue, a statue of Charles I (Statuia lui Carol I). Charles I was King of Romania from 1866-1914. He won a silver medal in the TV show of 100 greatest Romanians.

On the way from the center to the station you will walk around the university (Universitatea din Craiova; 500 m / 6 minutes walk east of the center) from the end of the 19th century, which originally served as a courthouse.

Where to stay in Craiova?

In the city we stayed in a cozy Romanian Pensiunea Luisa guest house (1 km / 13 minutes walk southeast of the center and 2.6 km / 35 minutes walk southwest of the train and bus station), located on the outskirts of the center.

The receptionist spoke only Romanian, but she was very willing to explain everything to us. She accommodated us in a double Business Room with a small window overlooking the wall of the opposite building with a private bathroom with shower. As I looked for the plug, I noticed a clump of dust under the bed. Therefore, I preferred not to look at the mattress. A buffet breakfast is served in the restaurant, which is adjacent to the guest house and is interconnected. Free (but very weak) Wi-Fi internet connection was in the whole object. It is not necessary to book a free private parking space, which is available on site.

I’m sorry I didn’t take a photo of the stairs and the corridor at the guest house. If you’ve ever read Dracula by Bram Stoker, this is exactly how I imagined the hotel in Bistrița, where Jonathan Harker stayed on his way to Dracula’s castle.

For one double room for two people for one night we paid 120 lei / 24.82 eur. The price included room, 5% value added tax, 1% city tax and breakfast. In the guest house we paid by credit card in local currency.

Where to eat in Craiova?

We ate in the city in two Italian restaurants – Restaurant Il Forno and Pizzeria Trevi, and between museum tours we had a coffee break in a patisserie. A visit of the confectionery was nothing special and therefore I am not writing about it.

Restaurant Il Forno

Restaurant Il Forno (750 m / 10 minutes walk east of the center) is a pleasant looking modern restaurant in the city center. I tasted Chicken rolls with spinach and feta cheese and roasted potatoes (chicken breast, spinach, feta cheese, cream, garlic, pepper), which were delicious. English speaking staff. After lunch, I recommend you a delicious Italian espresso. We paid 86 lei / 17.79 eur for lunch for 2 people.

Pizzeria Trevi

Pizzeria Trevi (1 km / 13 minutes walk east of the center) is a truly Italian restaurant. A cozy restaurant that uses every square meter of its area. There were tables with checkered tablecloths, serving tables, Italian-speaking staff and, of course, an Italian menu. I tasted Partenopea pasta. It is a pasta with onion-based tomato sauce with tuna and olives. The taste is enhanced by capers and the portion is covered with grated Parmesan cheese. The pasta was very tasty and rich. We paid 100 lei / 20.69 eur for dinner for 2 people.

After visiting the city of Craiova, I am probably most sorry that we did not have time to visit the Art museum. I would have also liked to walk through the large park, which is situated south of the center. Instead, the cold February weather „drove us“ to heated museums and restaurants.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid on 1 April 2020 (1 eur = 4.8340 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

Príspevok Craiova – the capital of Oltenia je zobrazený ako prvý na Adam Vanecko Traveller Food & Travel Blog.

How to get to Deva?

Deva is located on the main road and railway from Hungary to Romania, so you can easily get here from the capital of our southern neighbor (Budapest) without a single transfer.

By car

Deva is crossed by the European roads E68, E79 and E673. The E68 starts in the Hungarian town of Szeged and continues through the border crossing Nădlac – Arad – Deva – Sibiu – Făgăraş to Braşov. The European route E79 leads from north to south from Hungary via Romania, Bulgaria to Greece. In Romanian territory, it passes through the cities of Oradea – Deva – Târgu Jiu – Craiova – Calafat. The European road E673 from Lugoj ends in the city.

By bus

If you are traveling to or from the city by bus, you can come to one of the following bus stops:

• Autogara BV Dasler SRL – main bus station next to the train station,
• Parcare McDonald’s – north of the bus station,
• Benzinaria PETROM (langa McDonald’s) – north of the “ McDonald’s“.

Do not worry about anything, the station and both stops are next to each other. Regional and some long-distance buses leave from the southern part of the station, and public transport and some long-distance buses start in the northern part. Some regional buses also stop at public transport stops.

By train

All international trains from Budapest stop in Deva. The railway runs in Romania through the cities of Arad – Deva – Sibiu – Făgăraş – Braşov. Gara Deva (the railway station) is located 700 m / 9 minutes walk east of the city center. The journey from Budapest takes 7 hours 51 minutes. A return ticket from Poprad to Alba Iulia cost 147 eur for 2 people. The seat cost 3 eur / person (2020).

The train literally flies over Hungary, in Romania it „drags“ a bit then. Prepare for checks on both sides of the border. You will stay on the Hungarian side for 40 minutes, on the Romanian side for about 25 minutes. During this time, they manage to replace the locomotives and take about half of the train on their way from Hungary. I was surprised that there is no restaurant car on the train and the offer of refreshments from the trolley is not available. Therefore, get enough food before the trip.

Where to get information in Deva?

The Tourist Information Center (Centrul Național de Informare și Promovare Turistică) is located at the lower station of the funicular to the fortress (Telecabină Cetatea Devei; 850 m / 10 minutes walk north of the city center).

What to do, see and visit in Deva?

Deva does not have an overflowing tourism primary offer. Nevertheless, it offers a few attractions that make it worth staying in the city longer.

Deva fortress

The stone fortress in Deva (Cetatea Devei), which sits on a hill high above the city, is unmissable from every side from which you come to the city. It dates back to 1269. In 1784 it served as a refuge during the peasant uprising.

Hungarian legend says that the builder of the Deva fortress had his wife walled up in one of the walls of the fortress. He wanted to ensure that Satan never destroyed the fortress. The death of his wife was probably in vain. The fortress was conquered by Hungarian rebels after a 4-week siege in 1849 by the explosion of gunpowder warehouses. The tooth of time has been biting into her ever since. Projects for the gradual restoration of the fortress emerged only in this century.

You can go to the fortress on foot or by cable car (20 lei / 4.16 eur / person). Two walking routes – 30- and 40-minute start north of the manor house. Both routes are worthwhile. While the shorter one winds around the hill from the west side, the longer one from the east side. The lower station of the funicular is located at the eastern foot of the hill. You can enter the fortress at any time of the day or night. Admission is free.

In the Deva fortress there are information boards (also in English) and vending machines in case you get hungry or thirsty. From the fortress you will have a view of the surrounding hills, valleys and the city itself, which lies below the hill. In the past, the so-called the „Salt road“ that connected Rome with Transylvania, passed through the city.

Museum of Dacian and Roman Civilization

Museum of Dacian and Roman Civilization (Muzeul Civilizației Dacice și Romane) is housed in the Renaissance manor house of Magna Curia, which dates from 1621. On the ground floor you can get acquainted with natural history collections, on the first floor with historical and archaeological ones. Permanent exhibitions are complemented by temporary exhibitions. We saw exhibitions dedicated to contemporary photography, wooden sculptures, treasure from the museum’s collections, or the 750th anniversary of the fortress. The ticket costs 20 lei / 4.16 eur / person.

I was surprised by the exhibition of dresses of Maria Szechy (1610-1678), who was the granddaughter of the infamous „bloody“ Countess Elisabeth Bathory. However, we know her from legends as „Venus of Muráň“. Maria was born and raised in Muráň, Slovakia, but at the age of 17 she married Stephen Bethlen and moved to the manor house in Deva, Transylvania. According to other sources, she allegedly fled to Deva from her second husband, Stephen Kun. After the death of her first husband, she married twice more.

For the first time to the already mentioned Stephen Kun, with whom she divorced. It should be noted that then it was not as common as it is today. The last time she married Ferenc Wesselényi, the Fülek castle captain, later the Hungarian palatine (the second highest position after the monarch). He married Maria only four months after the death of his wife Zsófia Bosnyák, whom we know from Strečno Castle in Slovakia.

Statue of Decebalus

The equestrian statue of King Decebalus of Dacia (Statuia lui Decebal; 500 m / 5 minutes walk south of the center) is located in front of the Drăgan Muntean Cultural Center. Decebalus ruled in the years 87-106 AD. His name means „as strong as ten men“. He fought against the Roman army several times. Last in 106 AD, when he was defeated by the legions of Emperor Traian. Decebalus would rather commit suicide (allegedly pierced his throat) than fall into captivity.

Statue of the Roman emperor Traian

The statue of the Roman Emperor Traian (Statuia lui Traian) is located in the city center in the pedestrian zone behind the huge inscription „I love Deva“. The decisive battle between Traian and Decebalus is also depicted on Traian’s Column in Rome.

Where to stay in Deva?

Rooms Cristian is located (1.8 km / 23 minutes walk south of the center) in a residential area in the southern part of the city. There is a bus stop near the hotel, with public and regional buses.

We were accommodated in a spacious twin room „Deluxe“ with a private bathroom with shower and a view of the street in front of the hotel. At check-in, the receptionist was a little confused, but tried to solve everything to our satisfaction. She made sure I had her phone number so I could contact her with any questions. Rooms Cristian was another of the accommodation facilities in which smoking is probably allowed inside as well, because in our room it was quite felt perceived. The shower flowed a bit.

We found out after its first use, when the bathroom was slightly flooded. The bathroom window was facing the opposite apartment buildings, so you won’t enjoy much privacy there. They prepared breakfast only for us, so we ate both days the same, but it doesn’t matter. They prepared a rich breakfast, which gave us enough strength to explore the city and the region. The receptionist spoke German, the waitress spoke English. Free private parking is available on site. Reservation is needed. Free Wi-Fi internet access is available throughout the hotel.

For one twin room for 2 people for 2 nights we paid 200 lei / 41.57 eur. The price includes room, value added tax, city tax and breakfast. You can only pay in cash in the local currency.

Where to eat and go for coffee in Deva?

During two days we tried 3 restaurants and one café in the city.

BöRD13

The Swedish-sounding BöRD13 (700 m / 9 minutes walk south of the center) is a pleasant modern restaurant on the floor of an older building. The restaurant offers fantastic views of Deva city center with the statue of Decebalus in the foreground and the Deva fortress in the background. Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, there was no free table by the window and the staff seated us at a larger table by the bar. Only one English-speaking waiter was found among the attending staff though. I didn’t want to experiment very much, so I chose a classic and ordered lasagna, which was very tasty. We paid 95 lei / 19.75 eur for dinner for 2 people.

Grizzly Restaurant

Grizzly Restaurant (only 140 m / 2 minutes walk west of the train station) was our first stop after arriving to Romania. Nice, clean, minimalist restaurant with English speaking staff. I tasted fried chicken breast with basil, green sauce and rosemary potatoes. Dinner was simply delicious. After dinner, we enjoyed a local brandy, which did not taste us so much. We paid 110 lei / 22.86 eur for dinner for 2 people.

Restaurant Capriccio Deva

The Italian Restaurant Capriccio Deva is located right in the city center in the pedestrian area. You just enter one of the gates and the restaurant is hidden in the garden of the house. After a tour of the castle, museum and fortress, we got a taste for something big and rich. Naturally, we got a pizza that was mediocre. The waiter forgot about us with the order of the drink, which he later admitted. But he hadn’t had the time to serve us anyway. A little surprising when I think that it is his job, but probably common. We paid 90 lei / 18.71 eur for lunch for 2 people.

The Refresh

The stylish The Refresh Café is located in the city center, right in the pedestrian zone. I really like the fact they did care about the details in the café. On Sunday morning, it filled with many young guests. There was almost nowhere to sit. The café seems to have captured its target audience accurately. I tasted cappuccino and brioche. The coffee was great, so was the cake. If I had lived in Deva, this would have been a coffee shop where I would probably spend my entire salary. We paid 24 lei / 4.99 eur for a bill for 2 people.

I think that two days will be enough for a city tour. The old town retains the atmosphere of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. It is already surrounded on all sides by socialist apartment buildings, but do not be discouraged. The gastronomic scene of the city is excellent. I recommend visiting.

Prices were converted according to the current exchange rate of the National Bank of Slovakia valid on 5 March 2020 (EUR 1 = 4.8110 lei).

I did not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage of the services provided by tourism businesses, institutions and organizations.

© Ing. Adam Vanečko

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